Induction modifications
- Thread starter 7MAT
- Start date
Anyone had any results from removing the infamous 'acoustic valve' :?:
7MAT you seem to have totally got your head round this acoustic valve thing. So many of us are on the verge.... would you consider detailing it on the " How to do it " section for us cowards who need a real step by step guide.
PLEASE !!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Cheers Carnut
PLEASE !!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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/ Cheers Carnut
carnut said:7MAT you seem to have totally got your head round this acoustic valve thing. So many of us are on the verge.... would you consider detailing it on the " How to do it " section for us cowards who need a real step by step guide.
PLEASE !!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Cheers Carnut
Mat, take out some liability insurance also - for when it all goes wrong
lol.
- Thread starter
- #65
carnut said:7MAT you seem to have totally got your head round this acoustic valve thing. So many of us are on the verge.... would you consider detailing it on the " How to do it " section for us cowards who need a real step by step guide.
PLEASE !!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
\
Cheers Carnut
I've now removed two - if I do another I take some step by step pics.
But to be honest it is very easy and should not take any longer than 15mins start to finish.
7MAT said:carnut said:7MAT you seem to have totally got your head round this acoustic valve thing. So many of us are on the verge.... would you consider detailing it on the " How to do it " section for us cowards who need a real step by step guide.
PLEASE !!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
\
Cheers Carnut
I've now removed two - if I do another I take some step by step pics.
But to be honest it is very easy and should not take any longer than 15mins start to finish.
Really? I'm fitting an ITG panel filter soon, buying one at the moment, and I took the lid of the airbox off (in case the previous owner hadn't already bought a non-replacable one), saw the two feeds and wondered if I could get at the valve from the top.
Do you have to remove the wheel and arch liner to remove the acoustic valve?
- Thread starter
- #68
drexel said:
It's the arch liner or the front bumper.
drexel said:
That'll be a yes then, my arms are longer than most peoples legs.
Nik - can you cut and paste the useful bits of this thread into the how to guides, possibly after 7MAT has written up the full report :wink: , After finding out definitively that the acoustic valve is just for an EU induction noise directive, I imagine a lot of people will want to do this mod.
Then I'll delete my useless waffling posts from this thread.
A short guide
* Remove (entirely) the air box, disconnecting both air feeds (one to the right and one directly under). Air box is held in place by two screws and jublie clips
* Jack the car up under front left, ensure you use a axle stand or similar
* Remove wheel, place neatly elsewhere
* Remove the underside arch-liner, fastened by a few torque screws and some fat looking plastic plugs (these just pull out with a tug)
* Watch for the small ribbed cable (battery acid overflow pipe) as its connected to the arch liner. Let this dangle somewhere.
* You will now have exposed the underside of your front bumper, note the bracket holding both your horn and the acoustic valve.
* Try to unclip as many of the wiring looms to both the horn and the valve, let these looms dangle somewhere
* Undo the bolt holding the bracket in place
* Tuck the horn assembly somewhere out of the way
* Remove the small air feed, no 1, simply turn it to unclip
* Remove accoustic valve by pulling it downwards and out of the wheel arch, if you meet resistance check looms are disconnected and path is clear
* You should be left with a large gap / hole
* Accoustic valve will be connected to a thin black tube, remove as much of the connecting bits, leaving just the tube.
This must be blocked off (or you will idle above 1000rpm) with a screw / bung similar
Tape the screw in place
* Remount the horn, reconnect horn wiring loom to horn, screw bracket back into place
* Tape up all looms and cover ends with tape
* Tape blocked pipe somewhere
* Once the valve is removed make any modifications you wish, i.e place your airfeeds etc
* Reconnect the battery overflow pipe to the grilled bottom of the arch liner
* Replace arch liner, fix with plugs and screws
* Put wheel back on, ensure wheel is flush to brake when placing nuts or you will mark your wheels
* Lower car
* Connect new air feeds to air box, replace air box, ensure jubile clips are tight
* Job done, admire your work.
Start car, check horn, leave to idle for 2mins ish - idle @ 800rpm ish?
Anyone feel free to modify this as i may have left bits out.
* Remove (entirely) the air box, disconnecting both air feeds (one to the right and one directly under). Air box is held in place by two screws and jublie clips
* Jack the car up under front left, ensure you use a axle stand or similar
* Remove wheel, place neatly elsewhere
* Remove the underside arch-liner, fastened by a few torque screws and some fat looking plastic plugs (these just pull out with a tug)
* Watch for the small ribbed cable (battery acid overflow pipe) as its connected to the arch liner. Let this dangle somewhere.
* You will now have exposed the underside of your front bumper, note the bracket holding both your horn and the acoustic valve.
* Try to unclip as many of the wiring looms to both the horn and the valve, let these looms dangle somewhere
* Undo the bolt holding the bracket in place
* Tuck the horn assembly somewhere out of the way
* Remove the small air feed, no 1, simply turn it to unclip
* Remove accoustic valve by pulling it downwards and out of the wheel arch, if you meet resistance check looms are disconnected and path is clear
* You should be left with a large gap / hole
* Accoustic valve will be connected to a thin black tube, remove as much of the connecting bits, leaving just the tube.
This must be blocked off (or you will idle above 1000rpm) with a screw / bung similar
Tape the screw in place
* Remount the horn, reconnect horn wiring loom to horn, screw bracket back into place
* Tape up all looms and cover ends with tape
* Tape blocked pipe somewhere
* Once the valve is removed make any modifications you wish, i.e place your airfeeds etc
* Reconnect the battery overflow pipe to the grilled bottom of the arch liner
* Replace arch liner, fix with plugs and screws
* Put wheel back on, ensure wheel is flush to brake when placing nuts or you will mark your wheels
* Lower car
* Connect new air feeds to air box, replace air box, ensure jubile clips are tight
* Job done, admire your work.
Start car, check horn, leave to idle for 2mins ish - idle @ 800rpm ish?
Anyone feel free to modify this as i may have left bits out.
Attachments
if you want a louder noise you can just remove the pipe from the side of your air filter which only takes about 5 seconds and this gives a great induction noise but feels like you lose a little tourque, great for round own and posing then reconect for track days and 1/4 miles. The pipe is the black one on the right side of filter as you ,.ook at it in engine bay I have an ITG panel filter as well
Jzink said:
You know, after all this talk, I think you've come along with the perfect solution, just disconnect the pipe at the airbox, the valve can carry on doing what it likes and you get more air and a better induction sound, the only problem I can see is by not removing the pipe altogether, it will be difficult to squeeze a cold air feed in to prevent heat soak. Makes reconnecting it for servicing/warranty issues a doddle though and you don't have to take the wheel off.
Nice one Jzink!
plus they break easily, reno can supply them if your friendly with the part guy for nowt...
Yeah, before and after runs would be good. I fitted mine last weekend. Sounds good, if a bit loud at times and feels great.
Mine feels much better, but I think that's because one of the standard pipes had broken. My car had been feeling slow in traffic and i've finally realised it was because the pipe was taking in hot air from the engine bay instead of cool air from the wheelarch. :?
Mine feels much better, but I think that's because one of the standard pipes had broken. My car had been feeling slow in traffic and i've finally realised it was because the pipe was taking in hot air from the engine bay instead of cool air from the wheelarch. :?
Not really much of i test but before i removed mine i used to put my foor down i 4th at a sign doing 40mph and by the time i got to the next sign i was doing 62mph ish.
With it removed by the second sign i now do about 65mph ish.
Answer:- Doesnt make any difference in my eyes, only my ears, a slightly louder noise.
Forgot to mention, according to my RSTuner Pro with it removed i am 10kw of power down.
Like i said though dont really think it makes any diff.
With it removed by the second sign i now do about 65mph ish.
Answer:- Doesnt make any difference in my eyes, only my ears, a slightly louder noise.
Forgot to mention, according to my RSTuner Pro with it removed i am 10kw of power down.
Like i said though dont really think it makes any diff.