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They were unpinned by the previous owner before fitting.
I cleaned the shock up before thinking about taking a photo, but it's definitely not lost pressure and moved up the the connecting bar
 
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They are prone to a bit of corrosion around the base of the adjuster/adjuster shaft interface... Perhaps that's seized it up... But being de pinned by the owner seems strange as you need to remove the red knob to do that ... Or did he have some one like BG do it ?
 
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I'm assuming you tried to turn it in both directions... It's not that it's vibrated unwound to fully soft and is against the stop ?
 
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Yeah it won't budge. I'll have a proper look this weekend, but didn't want to force it when I tried last week. There was definitely some form of leakage around it though
 
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Well if you are worried I can inspect it for you.. I have all the seals and o rings needed for rebuilds.. And a set of cup dampers for you to use while yours get repaired..
 
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So after thinking about this overnight ..
My thought is that the detent balls and springs might have seized in place .. I've seen this on several pinned dampers that have never been adjusted and on stripping for de pinning its all a mess in there ..
 
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It's hard to predict without seeing them, but way away from a full re build type of job.. shouldn't need any parts other than the detents if they are seized.. Dampers off the car tho ..
 
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So after thinking about this overnight ..
My thought is that the detent balls and springs might have seized in place .. I've seen this on several pinned dampers that have never been adjusted and on stripping for de pinning its all a mess in there ..
Large dollops of grease applied around the adjuster, cleaned off and reapplied when needed seem to stop the crap getting in.
 
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I have see pictures of damper adjusters wrapped in self sealing tape to protect the adjuster from crud .. I think MarkR and Sharky do that....
But with stainless detents and ti adjuster body's corrosion will be a distant memory..
 
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It's not too difficult... But it is easy to fuck it up ...the grub screw from the factory is loctited in... So it needs heat and care to tease it out without rounding the head off.... Problem comes when you get it off as the spring pulls it into the adjuster slightly and once you clean up and sort the detents out you have to wind all the adjustment off to full soft to be able to get it back on in the correct position again .. Then refit the grub screw before putting the adjustment back to the 22-24 clicks that is the pinned position...
 
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I have see pictures of damper adjusters wrapped in self sealing tape to protect the adjuster from crud .. I think MarkR and Sharky do that....
Not me buddy... I've not tried that on mine. That said, I have trouble remembering... old age and the fact the Sachs have been off the car for so long! I took them off in August 2014 due to a knackered damper (see video) and shortly after the car went off the road to have the engine / gearbox rebuild. As you know, I've not yet got the car back.

 
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Had another look at this today. Seems greasy along the connecting bar again. Adjuster won't move more that a couple of mm side to side, but certainly doesn't click. Think I'm going to stick some cup shocks on it over winter and get them looked at some time.

20161002_161228_zpszfbboiuh.jpg

20161002_161219_zpskmnbagev.jpg
 
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I think it wise to take them of before they get any worse.. It look so I'm,e to ight be the o ring from the canister to the damper leg to me in those pictures..
I do have a pair of cup dampers ready to go if you were over this way .. Could just do a direct swap over.. And get them sorted..
 
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It's a good idea to leave the pin inserted but not pushed all the way home, an unplugged hole is going to be an easy point of access for crud.

Are those Mark Fish springs?
 


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