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Re:

Cue said:
ratched - there's 2 screws in the boot - you need to remove the rear seats first. (the gold ish coloured scews).
I believe there is an ISOFIX on the passengers seat do you know if this is removeable?
 

Cue

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not sure what you mean, the passenger seat isn't isofix as far as i'm aware. But the seat itself is removable... are you aiming for extreme weight saving?
 
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No, just remove a few things that I will never use and lose a bit of weight.

Just looked at the Trophy spec and there isn't an ISOFIX on the passenger seat so my mistake.

So I need a ratched scew driver to remove the ISOFIX screws?

Plus, just noticed also on the spec that the Trophy has semi independent suspension. Anyone know how this stacks up compared to other hot hatches? I know the dampers are great, just know the likes of the R26 and new CTR have a beam.
 

Cue

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It's a T screwdriver (very large one not sure on the actual one needed) or a normal socket set would do as it's a dual option head.

It's a 15 minute job to do tops - 10 of those minutes are getting the actual seats out of the damn car lol.
 

Cue

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yes, they never got used plus with the harnesses it's a necessity. On top of that they save a fair bit of weight not being in the car.
 

Cue

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the top straps to the rear mounts where the seat belts are and the lower straps to where the front pretensioners are.
 
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cool, you have to definitely remove the rear seats to fit them then?
 
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Stevie, Trophy has a rear beam, just the same as most hatches, including Clio 3 and Megans, except for Golf and Focus. It is the cheap and cheerful solution, and as in so many cases detailed evolution gives as good a result as the more sophisticated fully independent set ups on the Focus and Golf. Rear torsion beams tend to give quite good toe control, but do not work well with heavier cars, when weight transfer issues and compliance become more relevant.

Put it this way, there is less to compromise than in a poor fully independent set up - clever damping makes it work well 90% of the time for the Trophy and even the Cup cars.
 

Cue

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a new one for you.....

in built diagnostics check for the dashboard readings.

Not sure yet what all the reading mean but it goes through a pre determined sequence of tests.

I think one of them tells you the fuel flow rate of the engine...presumably in litres.

How to:

with the engine off, push and hold the button on the end of the wiper stalk.
Turn engine on with button still pressed.

Release button and hey presto - use button on wiper stalk to go through the menu as you would with the on board computer.

To exit the sequence switch the engine off.

I'll see if I can find any more info about this later......
 

Cue

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Just found this on cliosport - it explains it a bit better than me

"edde
ClioSport Club Member


The Clio Mk2 fault finding dashboard trick
Theres a simple diagnostics built into the Mk2 Clio's

To access this, with the igition off press and keep hold of the button at the end of the stalk and turn the ignition on. ALl the dashboard warning lights will come on and the speedo and rev counter will go through a predefined sequene.
When your doing this though (you can let go of the button at the end of the stalk) ever time you press the stalk button the digital readout will show information (listed belew) each time you press the button some more information will show.

All the lights lit (shows if you have a failed LED).

The amount of fuel left in the tank in liters.

Fuel flow (the engine has to be running. This is in liters per hour

Stored faults
t mean an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds
J means a fault has been noted on the fuel gauge. It must have disconnected for longer than 100 seconds. The resistance from the fuel tank sensor needs to be between 5 and 350 Ohms.
d means an injection signal fault has been detected
h means an oil level sensor fault has been detected. Resistance from the sensor should be between 6 and 20 Ohms. Any reading over 20Ohms is an open cicuit anything under 3 is a short circuit.

If no faults are logged then dashes will show fixed dashes.
Press the reset button to clear the logged faults. Other faults arn't shown on the display."
 

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Few Questions in relation to this thread. from a newbie so please excuse i mentioned elsewhere ?

1. Disable Raid, why ? what is it ?
2. rattle on the passenger seat .. yes i have it, what is it ,
how do you cure it ?

3. wiper stalk conversion, how ? where ? ebay ? more info
please ?

4. remove isofix rear seatbelt - Covered thanks.
5. removal of acoustic vale to free airflow.. how ? where ?
6. how do you reset the mpg counter ?
7. either side of the front foot wells are mounting points
hidden under flaps. What are these for, and can you fit harnesses to the Trophy ? (Some information on this thread but is their a detailed fitting guide anywhere ?)
8. shift light comes on at what revs ?
9. adjustable dampers, remove pin, check, What settings are
people running for a balance of handling and comfort.. ? And which direction is for a stiffer setting.
 

Cue

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DMC said:
Few Questions in relation to this thread. from a newbie so please excuse i mentioned elsewhere ?

1. Disable Raid, why ? what is it ?
2. rattle on the passenger seat .. yes i have it, what is it ,
how do you cure it ?

3. wiper stalk conversion, how ? where ? ebay ? more info
please ?

4. remove isofix rear seatbelt - Covered thanks.
5. removal of acoustic vale to free airflow.. how ? where ?
6. how do you reset the mpg counter ?
7. either side of the front foot wells are mounting points
hidden under flaps. What are these for, and can you fit harnesses to the Trophy ? (Some information on this thread but is their a detailed fitting guide anywhere ?)
8. shift light comes on at what revs ?
9. adjustable dampers, remove pin, check, What settings are
people running for a balance of handling and comfort.. ? And which direction is for a stiffer setting.
most of this is covered across the forum as a whole, you'll need to use the search function in the top right hand side of the page to find most of it - and it could go back a couple of years.

1. Raid - i think this is the auto lock function on the doors (doors lock as soon as you hit 5mph) you can either have it on or off - change by keeping the door lock button pressed for 10-20 seconds from memory.

2. New passenger seat runners are needed, although it could be the little pulley wheel in the seat that has come off. This has a thread all to itself.

3. Wiper stalk - this is a major thread with a detailed guide as to how to change it, why etc... think it may even be a sticky.

5. Acoustic valve is a sticky also from memory - again it has it's own thread answering all your questions.

7. Harness, i wish to god i'd have done one when I put mine in lol - the amount of questions i've had that surround harnesses.... I've covered it on various threads but i will (time dependant) do a sticky for it in the not too distant future.

8. Shift light comes on at the optimum rev point. This is dependant on the ecu programming - a remap could have changed it, but it'll be around 7500 revs give or take a couple of hundred. The light is a bit pointless though as you need to be looking at the dashboard to notice it - not a good idea at those revs, even in first.

9. Dampers - well covered topic. 28/40 is the factory setting and most agree this to be the best compromise for road use. Going softer than 20/40 isn't recommended as you'll ruin the handling, harder than 34/40 will have your teeth shattering on anything other than a smooth road or track. these two threads will be useful : viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3496 & viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5144
 

Raz

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Here is a list I have gathered off this thread to save people searching :smile:

1. Air-Con glove box - slide the little blue toggle to open at the back
2. Extendable leg support on seat
3. Auto locking doors - press and hold the central door locking switch for about 7 seconds
4. Trip computer - oil indicator (not to be trusted)
5. What the switch on the accelerator is - deactivates CC & speed limited when pressed hard enough.
6. Jack handle - magically comes apart when placed under more than 110 nm of torque stress.
7. Radio & CD pause by pulling both volume buttons towards you at the same time - not sure if this is commonly known or not.
8. Best o the lot - wiper stalk conversion. The base model stalk can easily be switched with one from a Dynamique in 5mins - all the electronic stuff is already in the car, you just need the stalk!!!
9. Rear windscreen wiper will do a sweep if you have your front wipers on and engage reverse.
10. Mirrors heat up to clear condensation/frost when the rear demister is activated
11. Front windscreen wipers will do a 'paused' second sweep if using the water spray in order to clean any residual water marks.
12. Various codes presented by the alarm LED depending on what has triggered the system.
13. Removal of Isofix rear bar to save a few kilos (if you don't have the need for children seating fixtures).
14. Removal of acoustic valve to free airflow (put in place to meet EU noise compliance)
15. Clip on interior of glove box door to hold cards (I use mine to hold my Esporta card).
16. Hook on petrol filler cap to hold petrol cap while filling tank
17. Velcro in boot (which holds the car jack) can be expanded to accommodate a warning triangle you can also store the locking wheel nut adapter in here.
18. There is a rectangular 'cubby' area under passenger front seat to store items such as wheel locking nut, first aid box etc.
19. The Clio Mk2 fault finding dashboard trick
There’s a simple diagnostics built into the Mk2 Clio's

To access this, with the ignition off press and keep hold of the button at the end of the stalk and turn the ignition on. ALL the dashboard warning lights will come on and the speedo and rev counter will go through a predefined sequence.
When your doing this though (you can let go of the button at the end of the stalk) ever time you press the stalk button the digital readout will show information (listed below) each time you press the button some more information will show.

All the lights lit (shows if you have a failed LED).

The amount of fuel left in the tank in litres.

Fuel flow (the engine has to be running. This is in litres per hour

Stored faults
t mean an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds
J means a fault has been noted on the fuel gauge. It must have disconnected for longer than 100 seconds. The resistance from the fuel tank sensor needs to be between 5 and 350 Ohms.
d means an injection signal fault has been detected
h means an oil level sensor fault has been detected. Resistance from the sensor should be between 6 and 20 Ohms. Any reading over 20Ohms is an open circuit anything under 3 is a short circuit.

If no faults are logged then dashes will show fixed dashes.
Press the reset button to clear the logged faults. Other faults aren’t shown on the display.
 

pol

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so how does this seat extenison pullout? had a look the other day but cldn't see anything obvious. :roll:
 
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I couldn't see how to do it either at first - Gazza off here showed me in the end.

Just reach underneath the front of the seat and literally pull the front part of the seat forwards, fairly firmly. There's a recess you can get a grip on right underneath the very front of the seat... kinda hard to explain but hopefully that was some help!
 

pol

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i'll give it a bash in the morning. could do with that extra wee bit of support under my knees. (and the mobile holding capacities of this trick)!
 


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