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Rear dampers
- Thread starter PeterGinger
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Ok where do I start. I re-read the ready for the track yozza page on suspension. I have finally worked out that, in order to fit coilovers, you need to fit the renaultsport rear strut as per clio cup race cars. This is because it is much stiffer, like someone touched upon earlier. They would also be running solid mounts etc. I know the bilsteins are £850ish, but I have no idea on the strut. Both Items have to be purchased through renaultsport i guess. I thought the bilsteins were non andjustable, so they are out. Equally, ohlins are 3 ways and while this is nice, they would take an age to set up and the front is single adjustable. So I either have to convert the sachs damper to 3 way or find a suitable single way adjustable for the rear. Even if sachs did a rear equivalent of our fronts, £2500 for two dampers is beyond even me.
Yes Nitron don't do a kit, as they tend to stick to double wishboned cars. however, If i fitted the strengthened rear strut and was able to fit coilovers, they could make me one up to suit. I know they do that. The slightly annoying thing is having a different make of damper front and rear. Will they both ever feel like they are acting as one?
In terms of car usage, it is a low milage road car. I do activity days. I intend to do trackdays, but never get round to it. I run exaltos, but always complain about soft side walls. I'd be happy to run R888's in the summer, but 3k miles a set looks silly. I do try to push the car to the max, even on roads. i have pajids etc. I go to work at 5.30am and return mid afternoon, so the roads are always empty. When it comes to suspension, i'm very fussy and a bit of a black and white perfectionist. I want it to be perfect, simply because it can and it should be. I love the T, I dont want to sell it, so I'm happy to spend money on it as it will get a lifetime of use and enjoyment.
My Brother runs A048's in summer, but also runs Advan Neova LTS in winter. Advans are a road tyre, but the side walls are much stiffer than michelins.
Yes Nitron don't do a kit, as they tend to stick to double wishboned cars. however, If i fitted the strengthened rear strut and was able to fit coilovers, they could make me one up to suit. I know they do that. The slightly annoying thing is having a different make of damper front and rear. Will they both ever feel like they are acting as one?
In terms of car usage, it is a low milage road car. I do activity days. I intend to do trackdays, but never get round to it. I run exaltos, but always complain about soft side walls. I'd be happy to run R888's in the summer, but 3k miles a set looks silly. I do try to push the car to the max, even on roads. i have pajids etc. I go to work at 5.30am and return mid afternoon, so the roads are always empty. When it comes to suspension, i'm very fussy and a bit of a black and white perfectionist. I want it to be perfect, simply because it can and it should be. I love the T, I dont want to sell it, so I'm happy to spend money on it as it will get a lifetime of use and enjoyment.
My Brother runs A048's in summer, but also runs Advan Neova LTS in winter. Advans are a road tyre, but the side walls are much stiffer than michelins.
I have just visited Mark Fish and bought a set of rear adjustables and uprated springs, but not sure if I am going to fit them yet as I seem to have a creaking from the front end that needs looking into first! Might be expensive!
Peter Ginger
Just make sure that whatever you do involves someone ensuring that F & R are matched. That is why Mark Fish or possibly AST makes most sense.
As a tyre compromise you might consider Hankook RS2, which have track construction with road compounds.
If someone could measure the rear installation ratio I will happily do a rough calculation on rear spring rates in both standard and coil over positions. (it does not matter what the front rate is as I will do it as a % of the front rate).
Just make sure that whatever you do involves someone ensuring that F & R are matched. That is why Mark Fish or possibly AST makes most sense.
As a tyre compromise you might consider Hankook RS2, which have track construction with road compounds.
If someone could measure the rear installation ratio I will happily do a rough calculation on rear spring rates in both standard and coil over positions. (it does not matter what the front rate is as I will do it as a % of the front rate).
- Thread starter
- #25
I had a creaking from the front end, but it went away. I think it was the antiroll bar bushes. I oiled them. Certainly i want front and rear acting as one.
- Thread starter
- #26
Anyone tried the rs2s? How do they compare to exaltos?
Have just checked in Challenge racer manual - rears are coil overs- and bottom mount is amazingly still single shear.
Spring rates are F 1000 lb/in and rear are 391 lb/in (about in proportion to weight distribution - as back end will weigh nothing in race trim). Sidewalls will be virtually solid!
Slicks TP 23/25and wet TP are 25/25 - set when cold.
Spring rates are F 1000 lb/in and rear are 391 lb/in (about in proportion to weight distribution - as back end will weigh nothing in race trim). Sidewalls will be virtually solid!
Slicks TP 23/25and wet TP are 25/25 - set when cold.
- Thread starter
- #28
blimey Ive always thought my front springs feel stiffer than the rears. But it might just be cause ive adjusted the front nicely and cant adjust the rear. Great activity day BTW. 70mph on high speed bend and a 1:07 on the top cone circuit. Shamed an R32 haha.
i think George has hit the nail on the head with the sidewalls having most play in them. If you stand by your T and 'rock' the car, yes there is movement but quite clearly 95% of it is down to sidewall flex, the gap between then top of the wheel and arch barely moves so the damper clearly doesnt move much.
Obviously this does not reflect true driving, but it is interesting to read about various setups people are attempting. Personally i feel that the front should be left alone, and be wary of stiffening the rear too much.
If i learnt anything during my karting years is that stiffening the rear does not always equate to more grip. Yes, in the ket we stiffened up the rear of the kart to the max in order to get the back end snapping round, whereas in the dry loosen it up as much as you can. All torsion bars came out, yet the inside wheel still cocked when cornering. However, if a wet day suddenly dried up and you left the rear torsion bar on 'full' torsion setting, oversteer and spins were inevitable.
It's a very tricks thing, car setup. Lets be thankful the T is a great handling car to start with. It's far easier to get a car to go faster than to handle well...
Obviously this does not reflect true driving, but it is interesting to read about various setups people are attempting. Personally i feel that the front should be left alone, and be wary of stiffening the rear too much.
If i learnt anything during my karting years is that stiffening the rear does not always equate to more grip. Yes, in the ket we stiffened up the rear of the kart to the max in order to get the back end snapping round, whereas in the dry loosen it up as much as you can. All torsion bars came out, yet the inside wheel still cocked when cornering. However, if a wet day suddenly dried up and you left the rear torsion bar on 'full' torsion setting, oversteer and spins were inevitable.
It's a very tricks thing, car setup. Lets be thankful the T is a great handling car to start with. It's far easier to get a car to go faster than to handle well...