Top 20 Mods

[Trophy264]

Morning all !
ok so i got my Trophy Pretty much fresh out the box. taken the Acoustic Value off, getting some fat piping today. and i also getting the brakes done (discs lines fluid etc etc.)
ok so, i know that when it comes to Mods if you don't have a set plan, and you just fiddle, thats when things start going wrong.
so what's everyone else done and can we make a top 20 list of things that are worth doing.
was gonna throw a re-map in from the JMS boys. thinking about Harness, a roll cage?? come on help me out. everything from cheap and cheer full to abit more price (thinks to save up for).
ok so im thinking about a few Track days but im not going nuts, just want the absolute best out of her as a fast road car.
thanks for the help guys.

 

[kam]

Rollcage is overkill if your only going to do a few trackdays but harnesses are a good idea.

I'd say most important things are:

Brakes (You've already done them)
Air Filter / Induction kit
Exhaust with sport cat
Re-map
Second set of wheels with slicks
Rear Koni's
Mark Fish Springs and Geo
Mark Fish Top Mounts

 

[duffer987]

Worth doing?

wiper stalk conversion
tunepoint (if you like music)

surely numbers 1 and 2 for any daily driver Trophy

 

[Luke335]

1. Brakes (Pagid plus lines and fluid)
2. 2 degrees negative camber on the front.
3. Spare set of wheels and tyres for the track (15" will be cheaper for tyres and much more choice). Buy secondhand and sell them on when your done.
4. Rear anti roll bar (good on the road and cheap)
5. Unpin your front dampers.

You could leave it there. You'll have a great road car that you can take on track now and then without killing a pair of Michelins. If you have money to burn then carry on....

6. ITG Maxogen
7. Manifold match
8. Exhaust
9. Decat?
10. Remap


You will notice that lot but at some cost!

If you want to go more extreme....

11. Mark Fish springs and adjustable rear dampers.
12. Top mounts.
13. Harness.
14. Strip interior.
15. Cage.

For most people I would just suggest the first 5 or 6 will be enough. You might also want to replace the wiper stalk, Head unit and speakers. Some people rate the CG-Lock for the odd trackday too.

 

[Trophy264]

forgot to say the wiper stalk and tune point have been done.
thi is all great guys thankyou, keep it coming.

is anyone running over 200bhp??? that would be the ultimate goal lol (few years in the future here)

 

[Trophy264]

luke...
why 2 degrees neg camber??

 

[Trophy264]

also sorry im being dense, a rear anti roll bar, is that the same as a rear strut brace?? sorry if this is a blindingly obvious question but if it is i have one lying around so i can do that now.

 

[Cue]

more stable braking and more grip in the corners.

i wouldn't go with slicks unless you have a cage as some places will stop you running as the chance of flipping is increased with slicks as they handle greater G forces.

and no - a strut brace stops the struts from flexing, an anti roll bar stabilises the suspension during cornering.

 

[Stevie]

1. Uprated Headlight Bulbs
2. Silvatec Indicator Bulbs
3. Harnesses
4. Window Tints
5. Private Plate
6. Remove ISOFIX Bar

etc.

8)

 

[Luke335]

Adding more negative camber on the front helps to prevent the tyres rolling onto the outside edges during hard cornering. This gives the car more front end grip - although it will be a bit more of a handfull on uneven roads. Lots of people have had this done.

I added a whiteline rear anti roll bar too. This fixes onto the rear suspension to help stiffen the rear of the car and prevent it rolling. This actually gives the front more grip. Together with the camber I found these subtle mods give the car a more neutral balance on the road. It still rolls plenty but it tends to 4 wheel drift instead of understeering at the limit and feels more adjustable on the throttle.

 

[Trophy264]

sounds like a win win really where can i pick one up??

 

[wlshyd182]

sounds like a win win really where can i pick one up??

yeah i wouldnt mind looking into these either.

Plus which konis do people put on the rears? and why?

 

[power ranger]

http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/prod ... mber=58832

Now found them i may invest!

 

[NathanH]

How does the ARB work on the rear!? Its a solid beam so surely the ARB is doing sweet FA?

 

[Luke335]

Nathan, I thought the same as the beam which is already there looks solid! The ARB fixes to that and the bottom of each damper with a drop link. I saw one on another Trophy and it got me interested.
I then read a feature in Performance Tuner mag where they fitted one to a clio cup and raved about it. They said that it was a nice improvement on track on the softer setting. Then on the harder setting he span out and said it might be too much for the road. I decided for £150 I'd give it a go. Personally I think its very subtle even on the stiffer setting. With the camber and the ARB I found that the car doesn't want to understeer wide where it used to on some regular fast corners. M3 East to M25 Anti-clock turned into a few degrees of oversteer

I fitted mine about 2 years ago and have since fitted Mark Fish springs and rear Koni's so things have changed a bit. I don't really like suggesting everyone goes out and buys one as people have different views, but I liked it, and its still on the car ( although the drop links are pretty close to the ground now). Also it doesn't affect the ride like stiffer springs or dampers. Here's an extract from the PT website.....

WE’VE TRIED IT: Another day, another Renault, this time a Clio 182 in issue 6 fitted with Whiteline’s adjustable anti-roll bar. This is a much simpler and cheaper mod than full coilovers, of course, but don’t dismiss it because of that – we thought it was an excellent consequence-free suspension upgrade that would work even better with a full chassis set-up. As it was, it turned a dynamically competent car into a scalpel-sharp front-driver with nothing more than a 20 minute bolt-on modification.

SAMPLE PRICES: Whiteline products are distributed by a variety of leading tuning companies across the UK, so prices will vary; check the website for details. The ARB kit we tested in PT6 was a mere £134.15, which is very competitive.

http://www.performancetuner.co.uk/site/ ... nsion.aspx

Might be worth someone giving it a try. I got mine from balance motorsport.

 

[Luke335]

Chris,
I hope that answers your questions. No pics at the moment but there are a couple on the linked website. I'm not sure if this is still worthwhile with my current suspension setup, but I guess its still helping.

 

[NathanH]

cheers for the info luke, sorry to thread hijack!

 

[Trophy264]

thats alright dude, i wanted to know just as much to, so no worries.

So what else would people recommend ??

 

[nickboazracing]

Reading this thread with great interest. Tempted by the rear arb, sounds ace. I've had Whitleine bars on other cars and found them great on those too. Can you get 2deg front camber without upgrade parts?

Personally I wouldn't get slicks without coilovers and an accurate set up. With the standard suspension you won't get enough heat in them for them to work properly. It is an expensive mod as you'll easily get through a set on a single track day, probably finding them going off well before the end of the day.

Lets not forget tyres are by far and away the most important part of the car as they are what contacts the car to the road. So I'd say before modding make sure you have the best tyres on the car you can afford, and 4 the same! And check pressures on a trackday regularly (and on the road), it's amazing what a difference it can make.

I'd agree with the lists at the beginning of the thread regarding power/driveability, air in/air out is the first thing, then a re-map.

And weight loss is always good if you can put up with it on the road. Personally I wouldn't bother with a cage in a road car, too heavy!

 

[Cue]

you need aftermarket camber bolts for -2.0 on the front.