Cue

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he's just misunderstood.... he's talking about the camber, can't get the suspension much stiffer - it'll be almost undrivable on the road lol

I think the spring mat went for have lowered it slightly, i'm sure someone else did this, maybe oliie or oils, can't remember.


RE the comment about tution, totally agree. I've been advocating it for years. I've got a national B licence and have had hours and hours of tution, skid training, ice driving - you name it.

Only thing left is specifics to each course (there's about 15 which i haven't yet done in the UK) most of the smaller ones basically.
 
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7MAT said:
I've listed most of the prices etc in my garage section (next to members map) LOL.

We will have to meet up, you will be able to see for yourself what the changes are like.


Just looked at all your mods 7MAT, u've spent quite alot of money.....
Has it all been worth it?

Did the GDI decat make any difference as i was thinking of getting one when i go there, has your emissions light come on?

Dan.
 
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TrophyDan said:
7MAT said:
I've listed most of the prices etc in my garage section (next to members map) LOL.

We will have to meet up, you will be able to see for yourself what the changes are like.


Just looked at all your mods 7MAT, u've spent quite alot of money.....
Has it all been worth it?

Did the GDI decat make any difference as i was thinking of getting one when i go there, has your emissions light come on?

Dan.

Yes its been worth it, absolutely love driving my little Trophy. Better fun than my E46 M3 SMG.

Any de-cat is worth doing, I went for the GDI one as they had stock and was one of the cheapest at the time. The emission light did come on after 8 months but I've worked out how to reset it using a OBDII scan tool.

See thread;
http://cliotrophy.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3076
 
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Track tyres will give the single biggest improvement in performance - just don't go too soft if you intend to do lots of laps. Kumho V70A are the only ones that fit 16"

Cheapest mod is camber (2 degrees) and carefiu alignment. The toe setting varies for different cambers and ET.

If yuo are going to remap, then do the inlet manifold at the same time. (Iam going further and changing cams - BenR high torque)

I am sure that the Orbisoud sounds great, but am very sceptical as to whether it is good value for money in performance terms. The exhaust will be last on my list.

Weight reduction is fine, but normally make the car even more biased ot the front - at that stage move the battery to the boot.

Good luck
 
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In order of effectiveness (and excuse if patronising)

Tuition

remove weight

Camber change + toe change

Brakes - pads/proper fluid and ducting to keep them cool, no need or expensive 4 pots

Tyres (go for 15 inch wheels) Toyos are bounded around on every single make forum around - shame they are rubbish - use some ex Cup tyres or similar


Suspension - increase spring rates all round

then and only then engine



its the rule of diminishing returns, the most expensive modification (to the engine) will give you the least increase in performance

interestingly the list above is also more or less an increasing range of prices....
 
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Donkey, I don't have any problem with your recommendations - for hill climbing in production classs it is hard to reduce weight short of removing a/c and sound proofing which woud destroy it as a road car - power really does help up steep hills!!
 

Cue

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aye, i've also got to put £50k into an extension in 2 years time so it's a need V want thing.
 
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True Donkey, although I'd imagine stripping weight to be cheaper than track tuition! See you on the 17th. I can't wait.
 
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FYI the brembo max disks are current not in production. Yozza tells me they should have some towards the end of march.
 

Cue

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Quick update on this one:

- Inlet manifold match Done
- ITG Panel Filter done
- Cold Air Feed & Removal of acoustic valve
- Better Horn (something a kin to an alpine bus) Done
- Lightweight & Strong racing wheels – ET45, 15†or 16†not bothered which, probably 15†sorted
- Track tyres – Semi slick in case of damp patches (Toyo Proxies?) sorted
- Disks (Brembo Max)
- Pads (either the Pagid Blue RS4-2’s or Ferodo DS2500 pads, anything else that is suitable for road use that you’d recommend?)
- Brake fluid – (Castrol Dot 4?)
- Orbisoud exhaust possibly the new janspeed? waiting for end of warrenty.
- Remap Live remap by RS Tuning after the 'zorst goes on
 
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Sounds like the "GO" department is all sorted, time for some "STOP" attention now!

DS2500's in my road car (not tracked the car yet so only road use), and they are fine.
No probs hot or cold.

Can't report on their track performance thou.
 

Cue

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i'm tempted to go for carbon ceramic pads like what George has gone for, but i'll wait until he's posted his opinions up first.

the CAF's scheduled in for the 24k service, which should be sometime around the new year at the present rate of mile crunching (not very much at the mo)
 
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Cue - after first event, the RS15 do what I require , i.e are amazing from cold - can not report on long run fade resistance (as hillclimbs are very short) - also no anti vibration backing and as a result they do squeal a lot - dust does not look to be a problem.

For various reasons i shall be using the Trophy as my road car for a few weeks and so should get a better idea of their suitability for general use.

One of my fellow hill climbers used to run dot 10 (which I gather is PF97) on his Evo, and had all the well documented issues - he has now switched to Carbotech, reckons they are better then the PF97 and the dust problem is no more. I have not got round to doing a search yet.
 

Cue

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Another update:

- Inlet manifold match Done
- ITG Panel Filter done
- Cold Air Feed & Removal of acoustic valve
- Better Horn (something a kin to an alpine bus) Done
- Lightweight & Strong racing wheels – ET45, 15†or 16†not bothered which, probably 15†sorted
- Track tyres – Semi slick in case of damp patches (Toyo Proxies?) sorted
- Disks (Brembo Max) Done
- Pads (either the Pagid Blue RS4-2’s or Ferodo DS2500 pads, anything else that is suitable for road use that you’d recommend?) RS4-2's fitted
- Brake fluid – (Castrol Dot 4?) Done
- Exhaust Went for custom Prospeed
- Remap Live remap by RS Tuning after the 'zorst goes on doing at the 24k service.
 
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-Read Gordon Ramsey biography Done! :wink:

Good set of mods you've gone for there, bet the tyres and brakes have taken a healthy chunk off your lap times...
 

Cue

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i'd say atleast 2 seconds, possibly more - i only do rough timings as timing equipment is a big no no on most track days.

I do think that there's not many other renosports that'll keep pace with it on track now - Neal's 182 and a silver meggy that I see quite often are the only two that seem to be a challenge.

Oh and i read Ramsey's autio bio this springtime lol. DONE. ;)
 

Cue

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Yet another update:

- Inlet manifold match Done
- ITG Panel Filter done Maxogen now fitted
- Cold Air Feed & Removal of acoustic valve Done
- Better Horn (something a kin to an alpine bus) Done
- Lightweight & Strong racing wheels – sorted
- Track tyres – R888's sorted
- Disks (Brembo Max) Done
- Pads (either the Pagid Blue RS4-2’s or Ferodo DS2500 pads RS4-2's (blue's) fitted
- Brake fluid – Done, dot 4
- Exhaust Went for custom Prospeed
- Remap Live remap by RS Tuning after the 'zorst goes on doing at the 24k service.[/color]
 
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Looking forward to see what you think after the remap brings everything together Cue :wink:
 
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