Paint Fade
- Thread starter phillip.stephen
- Start date
gives it a glass like effect on a wax surface to add to the mirror like effect the polish a& wax have given it.
PS all of the above is much easier with a rotary polisher, or M.O.P (mobile orbital polisher) but alas when i started to look into which one the technicallities of which one to go for baffled me and i'd have just ended buying the most expensive assuming it did everything i needed, which is normally the route i go down....
PPS, tractor - there's only one type of JD in my book and it's an amber colour, tends to go nicely with coke.
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/q ... iling.html - i use the brightmax product and am pleased with the results.
my quandary always gets to not only which product but what type of product i.e. Polish or Pre Cleaner? Sealant or Wax?
PS all of the above is much easier with a rotary polisher, or M.O.P (mobile orbital polisher) but alas when i started to look into which one the technicallities of which one to go for baffled me and i'd have just ended buying the most expensive assuming it did everything i needed, which is normally the route i go down....
PPS, tractor - there's only one type of JD in my book and it's an amber colour, tends to go nicely with coke.
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/q ... iling.html - i use the brightmax product and am pleased with the results.
my quandary always gets to not only which product but what type of product i.e. Polish or Pre Cleaner? Sealant or Wax?
Cue said:
Cue, do you use this on top of the Permaguard?
I have been discussing this all at length with J and the thread that I started a while back on here.
Also to note regarding the discussion on the use of a sealant post polish and pre wax - I read that some waxes don't react well to a certain type of sealant - I think I read this on the polished bliss website...?? This means that the wax doesn't bind so well to the bodywork and therefore doesn't last so long..
This whole subject is a minefield!!!!
^^Yep, you're correct it is. It's a pity Matt doesn't visit anymore because he would know better than me but you'll find that some manufacturers like to keep it in house so it's more difficult to mix and match ie if you use someone's cleaner/polish you have to use their sealant/glaze as they are chemically compatible and they need each other to bond. It's not made any easier by some calling what i'd consider a glaze a polish (Zaino)
Though if i was starting out i think the Zaino stuff is where i'd go at the moment.
Also I'll second Cue on the Britmax detailer, very good and smells good
Though if i was starting out i think the Zaino stuff is where i'd go at the moment.
Also I'll second Cue on the Britmax detailer, very good and smells good
BenG said:
Yes. Its just used as a lube so I wouldn't use the the britmax, bit expensive, some just use a strong shampo mixture but I4D do the megs in gallon containers which you can use in a sprayer and you then don't need to worry how much you are using, you can never have too much lubrication!
BenG
ClioTrophy Moderator
Ok cheers.
another thing. A while back I bought the following from i4detailing:
BRITEMAX #1 Pure Cut
BRITEMAX #2 Restro Max
BRITEMAX #3 Perfect Prep
Ive not used any of them yet but my car has quite a few swirls and I would like to get rid of them, or minimise them, or whatever... Im pretty sure #1 is a bit too abrasive but is #2 also too abrasive ? I dont own a machine polisher yet but dont mind doing it by hand if necessary. I want to do the whole car. Any advice is greatly revieved. Thanks.
another thing. A while back I bought the following from i4detailing:
BRITEMAX #1 Pure Cut
BRITEMAX #2 Restro Max
BRITEMAX #3 Perfect Prep
Ive not used any of them yet but my car has quite a few swirls and I would like to get rid of them, or minimise them, or whatever... Im pretty sure #1 is a bit too abrasive but is #2 also too abrasive ? I dont own a machine polisher yet but dont mind doing it by hand if necessary. I want to do the whole car. Any advice is greatly revieved. Thanks.
e-mail Polished bliss, there really helpful
they detailed a Trophy for someone and sent me the photos and a how to and what they used to acheive the results. They advised on using 'Jeffs' Prime, Gloss and Jett kit, that was about 18months ago, i now use raceglaze and polish by hand (i'd wreck the paint if I tried a machine polisher).
they detailed a Trophy for someone and sent me the photos and a how to and what they used to acheive the results. They advised on using 'Jeffs' Prime, Gloss and Jett kit, that was about 18months ago, i now use raceglaze and polish by hand (i'd wreck the paint if I tried a machine polisher).
Mate I hope you've got arms like popeye
The biggest problem by doing it by hand is getting the compounds to break down to the point where they start working. But best idea is to tape off a small section and start low until you get the correction you want. I would ignore #1 start with #3 and see if you make any progress if not then add a blob of #2 to your 3 until you work out what's working. Always check what you've done after each go preferably with a halogen lamp. Does that make sense?
The biggest problem by doing it by hand is getting the compounds to break down to the point where they start working. But best idea is to tape off a small section and start low until you get the correction you want. I would ignore #1 start with #3 and see if you make any progress if not then add a blob of #2 to your 3 until you work out what's working. Always check what you've done after each go preferably with a halogen lamp. Does that make sense?
BenG
ClioTrophy Moderator
Yeah it makes sense. Should I expect to remove all the swirls or just the majority of them.
Ive just had a good idea... What if I get it professionally done, get the swirls removed etc and then all I need to do is keep on top of it and undergo the correct washing/cleaning procedure to stop swirls from coming back.
Ive just had a good idea... What if I get it professionally done, get the swirls removed etc and then all I need to do is keep on top of it and undergo the correct washing/cleaning procedure to stop swirls from coming back.
Ben, my plan is to move on from permaguard and do what I can to keep the car smart whilst I get a couple of parking dents pulled out and various other things, then if I'm not proficient with a d/a polisher, having practiced elsewhere, I shall get mine porfersionally detailed in order to have a good base from which to work. Hoping perhaps I'll never need the professional job as I'll have mastered it myself instead!! You're one step ahead as you've chosen your products, I can't even make my mind up on that yet!!!!
SharkyUK
ClioTrophy Club Member
I don't have a problem with the paint fading... still looks great... but I have noticed the door handles are turning pink... :? And yes, they get polished and waxed just like the bodywork too!
BenG said:yeah Ill probably end up doing that anyways.
Cheers for all the advice, and sorry for all the beginners questions.
I'm no expert, up until a couple of years ago i was a bucket and sponge kinda guy and the little i have learnt has been by browsing the detailing forums. It can't be too difficult if i can manage it.
BenG
ClioTrophy Moderator
All I need is a good base like you say. There is the issue of having the skills to do a good job yourself but with a bit of practice im sure its easy enough, (I mean if J can do it... :wink: ) The main thing is having all the gear, products and time to get it done.
I actually enjoy the whole detailing process and doin work myself. The results make it all worth it the the end. The only problem is i4detailing have some really nice products I want to use and I could easily spend £500 on gear at the min !
quik5i1ver said:
yes, but not all the time, only when i give it a through clean and think the 10 mins to do the final bit is worth it.
- Thread starter
- #39
like boys? Im comfused on what the best thing is to do,
i have had the trophy for 9 months now and wash it every week and polish it regularly but i still cant get rid of the swirls marks that the last owner left on,
I fancy using that claybar that you boys are speaking about but am abit lost on what the best claybar is and how to use it and where to buy it,
some help would be much appreciated, maybe a step to step guide and how to apply it? oh and does the claybar bring the colour up to a good shine?
cheers
phillip
i have had the trophy for 9 months now and wash it every week and polish it regularly but i still cant get rid of the swirls marks that the last owner left on,
I fancy using that claybar that you boys are speaking about but am abit lost on what the best claybar is and how to use it and where to buy it,
some help would be much appreciated, maybe a step to step guide and how to apply it? oh and does the claybar bring the colour up to a good shine?
cheers
phillip
Hey Big Phil. Right a clay bar will not get rid of any of scratches or swirl marks. You use it after washing as part of a detail (a full strip and clean of the paintwork before applying any sealants waxes etc) and it removes any bonded-on contaminants tree sap, remains of bugs tar etc and also any waxes etc. The paintwork will feel as smooth as very smooth glass when you've done it but then will need to be polished and sealed.
To remove swirls you can use AG srp which is a mild polish with fillers to fill in the swirls and this gives a good if temporary finish, to remove them properly you will need to take off a thin layer of the clearcoat by using more abrasive polishing generally involving a machine.
To remove swirls you can use AG srp which is a mild polish with fillers to fill in the swirls and this gives a good if temporary finish, to remove them properly you will need to take off a thin layer of the clearcoat by using more abrasive polishing generally involving a machine.