what's so special about those bolts, it could be hard too see from that picture but they just look like any other self colour cap head bolt complete with bzp flange nut?
Chris
Chris
Camber Correcting Bolts.
How do these work?
They fit where the strut bolts to the hub(2 bolts)?
Then they are cam shaped in the middle, with the widest part of the cam being as wide as the shank of the original bolt, then you can rotate it so that depending upon where the peak of the cam is, it will allow the angle between the strut and the hub to change, altering the camber of the wheels?
Is that right?
Should really buy some i guess
They fit where the strut bolts to the hub(2 bolts)?
Then they are cam shaped in the middle, with the widest part of the cam being as wide as the shank of the original bolt, then you can rotate it so that depending upon where the peak of the cam is, it will allow the angle between the strut and the hub to change, altering the camber of the wheels?
Is that right?
Should really buy some i guess
480bhp.com said:
They are high spec and the nuts will torque upto the correct figure around 180nm any other nuts will strip the threads well before this.
Please note that if you go this way its at your own risk !!
shiftspark said:
As above these were very kindly given to me by someone who knows more about these things than I ever will. They are NOT normal bolts, they are aero spec and as such are of a known quality with no stress points and will take 180nm. He worked out that the diameter of these will give exactly 2 degs neg and are not adjustable.
Don't worry i'm not daft enough to use choclate bolts that some suppliers sell, but are you saying that they are just a standard aero spec bolt, no cam effect or anything like that?
So they just work by putting a smaller bolt in a larger hole and offsetting the centres so that you can adjust the camber?
Chris
So they just work by putting a smaller bolt in a larger hole and offsetting the centres so that you can adjust the camber?
Chris
Yep.480bhp.com said:
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Why aren't people using bolts such as these from H&R, there designed to do the job properly or at least they look like they are from the picture
If someone could shed some light on this it would be appreciated, as i'm going to be either making some or buying some in the very near future.
Chris
If someone could shed some light on this it would be appreciated, as i'm going to be either making some or buying some in the very near future.
Chris
T
You deleted your original post but both knowing the source of the info I'm sure both shiftspark and I have more confidence in this “bodge“ than many of the bolts that can be bought.
I'm not saying everyone do this just suggesting an alternative.
480bhp.com said:Why aren't people using bolts such as these from H&R, there designed to do the job properly or at least they look like they are from the picture
If someone could shed some light on this it would be appreciated, as i'm going to be either making some or buying some in the very near future.
Chris
You deleted your original post but both knowing the source of the info I'm sure both shiftspark and I have more confidence in this “bodge“ than many of the bolts that can be bought.
I'm not saying everyone do this just suggesting an alternative.
Having used 'camber correction' bolts in the past I found that they did not work very well and felt the aircraft spec bolt would have far less stress points and from my calculations gave the correct camber change. Also they would provide a higher clamping load than the after market version - one of our design engineers calculated the clamping force on the standard 14 mmbolt, and then we checked oo ensure that the 12 mm 12.9 bolt would do the same, which is where the 180 Nm setting came from
Not Pulling your method of camber correction Hoolio but a 12mm bolt in a 14mm hole is just plain bad practise, all that's required to make it ok, is a simple 1/2 moon spacer, the problem of not using a spacer is that your relying on the friction caused by the clamping force of the nut and bolt to maintain your geometery, a slight movement up or downwards left or right would change geometery, and trust me from experience the roads in the uk have the ability to do this almost daily.
A simple 1/2 moon spacer would prevent movement in the plane's mentioned unless the spacer was too rotate, this is more unlikely on the uk roads.
If it's said that the h&r bolts are not suitable either then i'll just resort to maching up some spacers.
Would i be correct in thinking that people are using 12mm bolts in 14mm holes?
Thanks
Chris
A simple 1/2 moon spacer would prevent movement in the plane's mentioned unless the spacer was too rotate, this is more unlikely on the uk roads.
If it's said that the h&r bolts are not suitable either then i'll just resort to maching up some spacers.
Would i be correct in thinking that people are using 12mm bolts in 14mm holes?
Thanks
Chris
BenG said:
If that's the case then the only solution is to use some 1/2 moon spacers.
I suppose i need to take a wheel off and have a look at what Renault have left for us :wink:
Is the original an hole or a slot?
If it was a hole then the clamping force of the original m14 bolt would have no relevance when fitting a 12mm bolt, the original 14mm bolt only had to hold the parts together where as a replacement 12mm bolt would have to hold the same parts together but would also be subjected to high loads from cornering, where it would be trying to move bolt in all 4 directions.
Has anyone got a good picture of the front bolt arrangment in question?
Chris
Is there any drilling/grinding involved with changing camber? When I had the camber changed to 1.5 on mine, I didn't notice any camber bolts being used. Instead there was drilling to make the hole bigger. Is this normal? Work was done at Mark Fish.
When i took mine to him to get this done i think he was a little sceptical about the 12mm bolts i handed him getting exactly the -2 i wanted and he suggested doing this but i didn't really want the dampers interfered with.