Standard air box query??
- Thread starter Robh18
- Start date
Yep the one that disappears goes to the AV ( acoustic valve )
No cons to removing the AV.
It is there to help it pass EU noise regs. Under load the valve closes a bit.
Unplug the cable, unplug the vacuum line and block the hose, stash both somewhere, remove the valve, happy days.
It is there to help it pass EU noise regs. Under load the valve closes a bit.
Unplug the cable, unplug the vacuum line and block the hose, stash both somewhere, remove the valve, happy days.
The acoustic valve seems to make very little difference. Check that there is a black feed pipe onto the other hole into the airbox and that it's in good condition. Mine collapsed and the engine was taking in hot air from the engine bay. It felt very unresponsive when it was warm.
- Thread starter
- #7
I managed to find the thread on the acoustic sensor and there seems to be mixed views some say power increase some say power loss ?? Is it worth me taking out?? also do you think it would beneficial to redirect the cold air feed pipe or replace with a larger pipe as mine seems to be very crush
- Thread starter
- #10
well i have just defeated that objective as i have just put 8000K HID's in my T. however the ballast packs are very light maybe only 1KG for both !! I hate modified cars and other than the HID's my T is completely standard with just 14K on the clock, They make to trophy look real smart if they didn't i would have removed straight away !
With regards to the post ... tonight I just popped the cold air feed off and left beside air box so that air bypasses the AV to see if it might be the AV causing my lack of power problem. Other than being very loud (didn't like it that loud felt like a boy racer
) it didn't seem any different however at high speeds seemed to pull so much more !! So do i remove and replace with just the cold air feed to the box ?
Also my electronic throttle body clonks when i turn the ignition on and then makes a loud buzzing noise !! Is this normal and could potentially not be working correctly??
Thanks guys !
With regards to the post ... tonight I just popped the cold air feed off and left beside air box so that air bypasses the AV to see if it might be the AV causing my lack of power problem. Other than being very loud (didn't like it that loud felt like a boy racer
) it didn't seem any different however at high speeds seemed to pull so much more !! So do i remove and replace with just the cold air feed to the box ?Also my electronic throttle body clonks when i turn the ignition on and then makes a loud buzzing noise !! Is this normal and could potentially not be working correctly??
Thanks guys !
Robh18 said:well i have just defeated that objective as i have just put 8000K HID's in my T. however the ballast packs are very light maybe only 1KG for both !! I hate modified cars and other than the HID's my T is completely standard with just 14K on the clock, They make to trophy look real smart if they didn't i would have removed straight away !
With regards to the post ... tonight I just popped the cold air feed off and left beside air box so that air bypasses the AV to see if it might be the AV causing my lack of power problem. Other than being very loud (didn't like it that loud felt like a boy racer
Also my electronic throttle body clonks when i turn the ignition on and then makes a loud buzzing noise !! Is this normal and could potentially not be working correctly??
Thanks guys !
Just stop being such a big girl, this is all prettynormal.
What are the symptoms? How bad and how often? Hot and cold?
Rob,
With the caf removed yes it should feel like it revs a bit more freely at high rpm.
I have tried quite a few CAf / IK variations and found ITG maxogen to be the best. I put it down to the choked flow venturi style inlet increasing air velocity. Wide mouthed systems that ''remove restrictions'' tend to feel very flat and sloppy in the lower regions of the range. A 'restriction' can be good for gas flow when engineered properly.
Up to you with an alternative CAf, there is plenty of cool air in that area. Have a play
(P.s. Its not loud lol)
Not sure what to say about your throttle body noise.. Id say have a look at it and clean with WD40 though.
With the caf removed yes it should feel like it revs a bit more freely at high rpm.
I have tried quite a few CAf / IK variations and found ITG maxogen to be the best. I put it down to the choked flow venturi style inlet increasing air velocity. Wide mouthed systems that ''remove restrictions'' tend to feel very flat and sloppy in the lower regions of the range. A 'restriction' can be good for gas flow when engineered properly.
Up to you with an alternative CAf, there is plenty of cool air in that area. Have a play
(P.s. Its not loud lol)
Not sure what to say about your throttle body noise.. Id say have a look at it and clean with WD40 though.
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
I have just ordered a CAF 76mm diameter. I am going to remove the AV and leave the original CAF in place with the new ordered CAF placed on the bottom grill and facing the original CAF just for some extra cold air in that area. Worth ago got nothing to lose.
Good idea ?
I have just ordered a CAF 76mm diameter. I am going to remove the AV and leave the original CAF in place with the new ordered CAF placed on the bottom grill and facing the original CAF just for some extra cold air in that area. Worth ago got nothing to lose.
Good idea ?
Right, not sure you want my opinion again but here goes. The noise you describe coming from the TB perfectly describes what mine does, it also does it when you turn the engine off. Most on here would be surprised how noisy the bay is if you just turn the ignition on. (And it is a very loud buzz) Personally i don't think any fiddling you do with the air induction will help much though removing the AV will give it a little extra noise. You say it only has 14k on the clock which suggests you don't drive it much and when you do you drive it like Miss Daisy? It's not very scientific but have you tried taking it out and giving it a damn good thrashing this works for me and mine.
- Thread starter
- #19
I have tried the thrashing yes ... the T seems to be temperamental sometimes pull hard at the low rev band and then puts you back in your seat when it hits the wonderful 5000rpm and other times feels real sluggish and the 5000rpm band doesn't do much!
Been reading into the acoustic valve a lot recently before i rip it out and it seems its not only there to help noise Reg's its also there to help performance by reducing air intake at lower speeds giving more torque and opening up at higher speeds allowing the air to be less restricted. So surely its needed ??
I also herd the ECU resets when battery is discontented and then re-programmes it's self when the car starts again. Is this true and if so my battery was disconnected when the problems started and now my idle is even worse ! ???
Been reading into the acoustic valve a lot recently before i rip it out and it seems its not only there to help noise Reg's its also there to help performance by reducing air intake at lower speeds giving more torque and opening up at higher speeds allowing the air to be less restricted. So surely its needed ??
I also herd the ECU resets when battery is discontented and then re-programmes it's self when the car starts again. Is this true and if so my battery was disconnected when the problems started and now my idle is even worse ! ???
I have noticed the sluggish performance at times too. Was the same when I had a 172 years back. I can only attribute this to driving the car like "Miss Daisy" or when the car hasn't been driven for a while or doing a lot of short journeys. Taking the car out for regular "spirited" drives seems to solve the problem. Perhaps by doing so clears out the carbon/oil deposits in the intake, injectors, valves, CAT, exhausts etc. Plus the ECU "learns" your driving habits so if you drive for economy, then the ECU will optimise for economy. Either way, I find that my car drives a lot better for it and always bring a smile to my face!
With regards to the acoustic valve, I removed mine, it was one of the first mods I did on the car and the car pulls better from low revs not "strangled" like before. I also replaced the fabric tubing to the airbox with flexible aluminium tubing to the same length and diameter as OE as the fabric tubing had collapsed in places. The valve itself has no performance function and is purely there so that the car meets EU drive by noise regulations, though it may give a slight gain at higher revs if removed and the ECU remapped for this.
With regards to the acoustic valve, I removed mine, it was one of the first mods I did on the car and the car pulls better from low revs not "strangled" like before. I also replaced the fabric tubing to the airbox with flexible aluminium tubing to the same length and diameter as OE as the fabric tubing had collapsed in places. The valve itself has no performance function and is purely there so that the car meets EU drive by noise regulations, though it may give a slight gain at higher revs if removed and the ECU remapped for this.