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If you do decide to clean the MAF/throttle body be careful - delicate inside, easy to completely fox it up if you are not gentle !

Btw, the noise (a light buzzing) is normal with ign on; not sure if it's from the throttle body (stepper motor) or the ecu but mine does it too (so does Tinker's - I checked).
 
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OK, cheers for that. When the bonnet is open the buzzing noise is fairly loud and if i press on the black part of the throttle body it changes note. Dunno if this is correct try it with yours and see if it does that same.
Thanks
Rob
 
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I'd do another battery disconnect/reset to make sure it's not stepper position problem, mine's not a particularly loud buzz....
 
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Just discontent the battery ? how long for and do i need leave it discontented for ?
 
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Iv just read your new post and to me like i said it doesn't sound like timing issue, and they are correct when the timing is locked in place, many garages tell you they need to remove and fit new pulley bolts as iv been told myself to do, although this is good practice and the pulleys are all floating not keyed, if the timing is in the correct place many places will save you the extra money for the bolts and there time and just pop a belt on.

I would personally try the cheapest options first, stick some 95 fuel in see how you go, i really don't recommend shell vpower any more. Intakes check there not blocked and air filter its self is clean, if worried disconnect the intake pipes and leave them off, i would disconnect the pedal switch then clean and re-connect, as for re-setting ecu unless you have diagnostic equipment this wont happen with just removing the battery terminal, if you want to try this then disconnect for 10 mins. I would also take the crank shaft sensor out clean the tip i use brake cleaner on a rag and give it a wipe, and i also use electrical connector cleaner in the plug and sensor pins, they do suffer with crank shaft sensor issues however this usually causes a non starting issue, many vehicles i have worked on that have crank shaft sensor issues do cause lag in power or misfires.

If all else fails pop it back to the garage that done the work see if they can find the fault, it does sound like you have a decent garage thats doing the work so im sure they will be able to sort it.
 
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Thats a lot for that liam. I will be checking all the intakes this weekend however it has just been replaced with a brand new air filter with the major service. With regards to the crankshaft sensor im not to sure where it is located and how i go about removing it. Also is the throttle electric pins located behind the peddle i need to clean are these the only ones ?
Could you just run me by removing and cleaning the crankshaft sensor. Cheers
 
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Crank shaft sensor is located bellow the air box and is on top of the gearbox, its attached by 2 x 10mm headed bolts, the area your looking for is as pictured bellow on the ask the mechanic website, however yours will look similar the other picture supplied, they are both positioned in the same area, be careful with the plug clip its quite delicate but you have enough room to remove the bolts slide it to one side and clean it, i also unplug is and clean the pins too, but if your unsure don't worry too much about this.

http://www.askthemechanic.co.uk/makes/renault.html

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ok ... cjZyVWItrQ

As for air filter its worth just checking your have to remove the air box when cleaning the crank sensor anyway.

The throttle pedal pins are connected to the top of the black box on the pedal itself, i found one on ebay, you can see where the plug would go in the top of the box. Just clean these, if you like you can clean the throttle body itself as they do get clogged up with oil from the breather system, this is removable and has a rubber seal thats reusable but when refitting make sure its central not to one side.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLIO-SPORT-17 ... 4aac1218fd

Hope this helps any questions just ask.
 
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Thanks again Liam for all your help. When cleaning the throttle body im guessing there will be a butterfly type valve inside controlled by electronic components. What should i clean and what should i be cleaning it with ? brake cleaner ?

Also im just about to order a samco silicon intake hose to replace the standard black plastic one. Would you advise this make or is there a better one on the market? They all seem to take so long to be delivered as well ! upto 33 days
Cheers
 
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If your going to clean the throttle body out then i advise removing it before attempting to clean it, you will not want to fill the intake with brake cleaner or carb cleaner as when you go to start the car it will pile a tone of smoke out the back and brake cleaner ignites faster and hotter than fuel/petrol so makes an awful bang.

You only need to clean the throttle butterfly, it need a slight bit of air to travel through it so when held up the the light after cleaning you will see a slight gap around the butterfly when fully closed its very small hence why when these get clogged can cause bad idle and running. To remove just unbolt the 4 screws and make sure you don't lose the 'o' ring between the throttle body and inlet manifold. There is also a plug to the throttle body, i believe this is on the underside, just un-clip it and be careful not to break the clip. When refitting make sure when the butterfly is open that the throttle body and the hole in the manifold line up otherwise it will cause a slight lag.

Now as for samco intake hose, i have one fitted and the build and quality is pretty poor if im honest, on top of that it makes no difference to the standard unit so only benefit is the looks of it, i would say save your money on this one and keep standard.

One other thing that i forgot to mention with regards to power lag, do you still have standard exhaust fitted and whats the quality/condition?
 
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liam1610 said:
If your going to clean the throttle body out then i advise removing it before attempting to clean it, you will not want to fill the intake with brake cleaner or carb cleaner as when you go to start the car it will pile a tone of smoke out the back and brake cleaner ignites faster and hotter than fuel/petrol so makes an awful bang.
WD40 cleans all :D
 
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I've got WD40 (who doesn't!) however i dont mind buying some brake cleaner if it would be better to use.
Also Liam I still have the standard exhaust fitted yes and its quality I would say is good. I covered the tail pipes the other day whilst running to check for a blow in the exhaust and it was fine.
Thanks for the advice on the samco, I think i will give that a miss now and save my self 80 pounds !! Cheers
Is it worth cleaning up the contacts on the throttle bodie clip aswell ?
 
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Any electrical connectors are worth cleaning when unplugged, i only spray a bit of contact cleaner in them and then fit them back together, as for WD40 its ok for cleaning but no where near as quick as brake cleaner or carb cleaner, i thing carb cleaner is cheaper if your buying in a can but don't quote me on that.

WD40 btw is rubbish as a lubricant, it just washes off, i use WD for interior items, white grease for door locks/hinges and GT85 for anything under the bonnet or exterior.

Let us know how you get on, with all this as its quite a lot to look at, as for exhaust give each box a tap when cold with your fist, if you hear a rattle or knocking will most likely mean the exhaust is starting to fall apart inside, i had this with mine recently in my center box, on removal i checked it and turned out the center pipe had fallen apart inside and was the cause for my rattling.
 
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Spent a couple of hours on the trophy this weekend, Cleaned the crankshaft sensor with brake cleaner till it was gleaming and cleaned its contacts with contact cleaner. Also took the throttle body off and cleaned the butterfly valve, had a bit of black around it. One thing i noticed when the ignition is on the butterfly valve does not move until the throttle pedal is fully depressed then the valve opens however not fully, if you push by hand the valve will open further is this normal??
Still have the acoustic valve to remove and the throttle pedal contacts to clean.
 
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Is it just ignition on or is it when vehicle is running as both will act different, when engine is running then the valve will open dependent on pedal distance, on top of that the pedal has a point where it will stop then if you push harder it will pop to the floor, well mine does anyway not sure on others.

If what your describing is on just ignition on then this sounds normal and i wouldn't worry.

Was the crankshaft sensor dirty by any chance? And how you finding it drive wise, still the same?
 
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This was just with the ignition on. I did not look when the car was running but i will check it on the weekend very very loud though aha. With regards to your pedal and the pop this is a switch that turns off your speed limiter or cruise control. The crankshaft sensor was pritty black so i cleaned it up with brake&clutch cleaner till it was silver and shiny :) I have not yet re-assembled everything and taken it for a drive but fingers crossed all this will cure the T
 
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No however when i cleaned the fuses under the bonnet as well as the coil pack HT lead caps that push into the coil pack and the pins on the top of the throttle peddle it went like a rocket then the next day the problem came back, very confusing, also the idle is still very lumpy I'm gonna get the timing checked i think
 
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Just an update on the problem guys,

Lack of power is becoming increasingly worse and small amounts of shaking/vibration is coming from the engine when I'm parked and slowly increase the revs from idle up to 3500 rpm and then back to idle. This leads to me the conclusion that my car has a slight miss fire ! Could be due to coil pack breaking down maybe, cracked spark plug, arcing from a split HT lead or many other reason....

What is it most likely to be ??
 
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