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What are the main things I should check for when viewing trophys? 
Is there a buyer's guide (what to look out for)?
sort of a combination of everything really.
a lot of it is opinion based though so you'll find some things conflict....
as a general guide I'd say go for one from Steve @ all vehicles - he's the UK's best dealer for RS models.
Ave milage for most Trophy's will be around 10-15k now as they are a year (ish) old.
The one's that have been serviced twice in this time would have the best internals - preferably filled with 5w40 oil. A stamp or two from a leading independant such as Yozzasport, Rentech, RS Tuning amongst others would be a good sign, certainly preferable to a dealer.
Acceptable mods are exhaust, airbox, braided lines and pads. Be careful of ones that have been chipped or remaped - ok if it's by someone that knows what their doing (as most on here have been done) but unless you have a receipt and we can verify the company assume the worst.
Preferably go for one that's been permagarded as the paint will protected and a hell of a lot easier to clean - if it's been supaguarded don't pay more as it's a useless product.
I would make sure it's on Exalto PE2's as the suspension was developed to sit on these tyres and they really work! but it wouldn't be a deal breaker.
I wouldn't worry about stone chips etc as a good resprayer would have the car looking better than new fo a hundered or two.
get the wiper stalk conversion done, unless it's already been done - 5 minute job.
A couple of people have noticed their rear shocks have worn, not too disastrious but could be pricey. If there's a problem with the front one's run and keep running.
Other than that there's not been a common fault or anything to report, the hard suspension set-up mean rattles will obviously develop etc.
Engine mounts maybe something to get checked out..... that's about it me thinks.
Good luck and have tons of fun!!!
(trophy)
a lot of it is opinion based though so you'll find some things conflict....
as a general guide I'd say go for one from Steve @ all vehicles - he's the UK's best dealer for RS models.
Ave milage for most Trophy's will be around 10-15k now as they are a year (ish) old.
The one's that have been serviced twice in this time would have the best internals - preferably filled with 5w40 oil. A stamp or two from a leading independant such as Yozzasport, Rentech, RS Tuning amongst others would be a good sign, certainly preferable to a dealer.
Acceptable mods are exhaust, airbox, braided lines and pads. Be careful of ones that have been chipped or remaped - ok if it's by someone that knows what their doing (as most on here have been done) but unless you have a receipt and we can verify the company assume the worst.
Preferably go for one that's been permagarded as the paint will protected and a hell of a lot easier to clean - if it's been supaguarded don't pay more as it's a useless product.
I would make sure it's on Exalto PE2's as the suspension was developed to sit on these tyres and they really work! but it wouldn't be a deal breaker.
I wouldn't worry about stone chips etc as a good resprayer would have the car looking better than new fo a hundered or two.
get the wiper stalk conversion done, unless it's already been done - 5 minute job.
A couple of people have noticed their rear shocks have worn, not too disastrious but could be pricey. If there's a problem with the front one's run and keep running.
Other than that there's not been a common fault or anything to report, the hard suspension set-up mean rattles will obviously develop etc.
Engine mounts maybe something to get checked out..... that's about it me thinks.
Good luck and have tons of fun!!!
(trophy)
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Thanks
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My top tip is this: set and manage expectations around the ownership of your car to your significant other.
I traded in a comfortable, refined and somewhat ‘prestige’ car for the Trophy.
I told my partner it would be temporary. My partner expected me to sell the Trophy after a year and go back to a ‘normal’ comfortable car. My partner can’t believe I refuse to swap my car for a new 335d now that a year has passed. My partner is not impressed. My partner no longer prepares hot meals for dinner. I am now hungry. I now sleep in my car.
O.
I traded in a comfortable, refined and somewhat ‘prestige’ car for the Trophy.
I told my partner it would be temporary. My partner expected me to sell the Trophy after a year and go back to a ‘normal’ comfortable car. My partner can’t believe I refuse to swap my car for a new 335d now that a year has passed. My partner is not impressed. My partner no longer prepares hot meals for dinner. I am now hungry. I now sleep in my car.
O.
rojer386
ClioTrophy Club Member
oliie said:
LOL, that made my night reading that. I work away and when I get home on days off the first thing I do is find an excuse to take the Trophy out. My GF loves me for it.....honest!
Cue said:
the mft's service interval are maximum recommended intervals. It's like not eating food till the best before date. The more regular the service interval the better, fact! Talk to any engineer who works on engine development.
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g40steve said:
I'd also watch for how the current owner/trader drives the car from cold.
The engine oil can take up to 10mins to get to proper temp after the temp gauge on the dash(Water temp) is up .........On most cars anyways.
I have never driven a car hard or above 3.5K rpm for the first 20mins, just to make sure the oil is safely up to temp.
I know it's not specific to the Trophy, but I have the Clio 172/182 buying guide from EVO scanned in that I can upload if you'd like?
trophylover355 said:What are the main things I should check for when viewing trophys?
Make sure it's RED, there are a lot of advertised fakes out there. :-w
SpaceMonkey said:
i think it might leave us open to copyright issues if it's directly posted as a scanned item but there's no harm in hosting it and giving us a link to where it is :wink:
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Gareth said:
No probs mate :wink:
I'll link it up tonight as it's on my home PC.
oliie said:
Hee hee. That made me chuckle. Too true, my view is if she wants a posh car she can work her arse off and buy it. My girlfriend is happy because my last car was a 20 year old peugeot bean can and the Trophy makes me happy.
My advice trophylover, just buy one that's been well loved, like most have, lots of servicing and good cosmetic condition, don't worry about mileage - in my opnion, a well driven car is often a well looked after car.
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Sorry for not uploading it yet gang.
Didn't have a chance last night, keep your mince pies peeled Saturday :wink:
Didn't have a chance last night, keep your mince pies peeled Saturday :wink:
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Well thanks everyone. I am not looking until feb but I think its good to be prepared.
My mate just told me that you shouldn't change your oil until 10k as its running in oil and the car won't make full power if you go to fully synthetic before then, to be taken with a pinch of salt I suppose.
My mate just told me that you shouldn't change your oil until 10k as its running in oil and the car won't make full power if you go to fully synthetic before then, to be taken with a pinch of salt I suppose.
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trophylover355 said:
Nonsense imo :wink:
SpaceMonkey said:
...a pinch of cotton wool more like, in the ears, to protect them from such pub science. What monkey told you that? If you could afford to change the oil every day, your car would be better off for it, the oil starts degrading the moment you turn it over. Running-in oil, really. Never heard such BS.
no oil is fully synthetic, they all contain carbon molecules which start degrading the minute they are produced!!!!
There's no such thing as running in oil, omg that's the strangest thing i've heard someone come out with for a while..... lol
Engine wear comes from carbon deposits damaging engine components - oil is designed to lubricate and limit engine wear. This is why your oil goes black - the quantity of carbon deposits increase as the engine is used. The greater the density of carbon in the oil the greater the engine wear.
Changing the oil every 500 yards can be counter productive but every 500-1000 miles is ideal. But as consumers we don't want to do that or can afford to do that so manufacturers extend the service intervals as far as they can without it causing major damage within the first 3 years, otherwise they pick up the tab.
Especially when running a car in it is essential that the machined particles of metal that float about in the oil are removed - the greatest damage to an engine is done in the first 3000 miles. You should really change your oil in the first 3000 miles to removed these particles.
My uncle was a engine designer and lecturer at the University of Loughborough - he knows a few things about engines!
There's no such thing as running in oil, omg that's the strangest thing i've heard someone come out with for a while..... lol
Engine wear comes from carbon deposits damaging engine components - oil is designed to lubricate and limit engine wear. This is why your oil goes black - the quantity of carbon deposits increase as the engine is used. The greater the density of carbon in the oil the greater the engine wear.
Changing the oil every 500 yards can be counter productive but every 500-1000 miles is ideal. But as consumers we don't want to do that or can afford to do that so manufacturers extend the service intervals as far as they can without it causing major damage within the first 3 years, otherwise they pick up the tab.
Especially when running a car in it is essential that the machined particles of metal that float about in the oil are removed - the greatest damage to an engine is done in the first 3000 miles. You should really change your oil in the first 3000 miles to removed these particles.
My uncle was a engine designer and lecturer at the University of Loughborough - he knows a few things about engines!
Cue said:
This is very true, you should change the oil as often as you can afford, manafacturers state long service intervals as a selling point, like mpg, but in reality they want the engine to start breaking after the warranty period has expired, keep their parts department happy. I think 12,000 miles is too long for any car to go on the same oil, especially the first oil that has entered the engine, bound to contain all kind of nasties. I changed mine at 7K miles, and will again at 13K, purely because I like prime numbers (and not at all because I was too busy driving it at 6K!)
Cue said:
There isn't such as thing as "running in oil" however until fairly recently cars would be supplied with a different grade of oil (often mineral I think) which was then swapped out for the preferred oil at the first service (often a 1000 mile oil change).
So although there wouldn't have been a specific formulation for running in, its easy to see how the term running in oil came about.