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Hope you guys can help me :D

Question 1
I'm thinking about replacing the exhaust on T450, would you recommend replacing the rear and centre exhaust mounts as well, (i've/shes done 22k).? also whats this exhaust mod i've heard about concerning hosepipe/sockets/copper pipe etc?

Question 2

i'm getting rubbin from my ds2500's, i removed the shims and greased the back of the pads when i fitted them so it looks like they must need filing, exactly which part of the pad needs to be filed and what did you or should i use to file/grind them down?


cheers.
 

Ajr

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I still don't get how the idea of greasing the rear of pads came about! It's a bad one, the pads need to stick to the caliper really, and the pads need to slide easily in the carrier. I simply took the shims out, brushed the rust off the sliding areas on the carriers and put copper grease on the carriers only. where they make contact with the pads. No squeeking at all, no sticking pads, sorted.
 
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isnt greasing the back of pads the same as greasing the carrier/, the pads have only been in for 150miles and i can here them slightly squeaking (rubbing) when i'm off the brakes. should i take the pads out and grease the carriers then?

cheers Ajr.

edit - and clean the back of the pads of any grease.
 

BenG

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also whats this exhaust mod i've heard about concerning hosepipe/sockets/copper pipe etc?

The idea behind that is that most aftermarket exhausts dont fit in the cut outs perfectly, so the rubber mounts are packed with something to tweek the position of the back boxes so that the pipes sit centrally in the cut outs.

I used M12 nuts as they dont flex, + you can use different size nuts depending on how far out the pipes are.
 

BenG

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Also, I would imagen the centre and rear mounts will be fine. My T was on 30K when I fitted a new exhaust and they were fine, just check none of the rubber has snapped, after time they tend to dry up and snap.

New rear exhaust mounts are £20 each from KTR.
Centre mount is around £10 iirc.
 
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seen rear mounts for £10 + delivery on ebay but not sure on their quality.
 
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Yep grease the ends of the pad but you may still find that they need to be filed and also wire brush any crap off the caliper.
 
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Dsturbed said:
the pads have only been in for 150miles and i can here them slightly squeaking (rubbing) when i'm off the brakes. should i take the pads out and grease the carriers then?
I had exactly this problem when I fitted my DS2500. I didn't remove the shims and didn't file them down sufficiently, therefore they were too tight in the pad carier and were not retracting from the face of the disk. I removed them the following day, filed down the sides and put on some more copper grease. No trouble since.
 

Cue

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re pads, as above...

re exhaust - replace the mounts if they needs it, some do by 20k (mine needed doing).

The mod is to cut the back of the cat off, enlarge the pipe to fit with the rest of the system and then stick two flanges on to mold up to the back end of the pipe (like how it connects to the front manifold.)
 
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Just inspected the pads and they are not tight, snug at most, still file them? the other thing is that the pads show signs of pitting on the disc contact surface, is this normal? or will this go when they are fully bedded in?

cheers
 

Ajr

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Definitely don't file the pads, at absolute most remove the paint from the two contact patches on each end.

They should slide forwards and backwards in the carriers easily by hand without the caliper fitted.

Literally every car i've looked at in the past with squeeling/binding brakes hadn't had sufficient prep done on the calipers.
This is the reason that they fit stainless shims, because they don't go rusty and allow the pads to slide easily throughout the life of the car/calipers without the need for prep work.

Another cause is sticking caliper pistons, i usually exercise the pistons by removing one caliper, pumping the brake pedal a few times to get the piston out a bit, then using a g clamp or similar to push the piston right back in, then pressing the brake pedal a good few times, and repeating the process a few times to loosen up the piston.
If the caliper sliders aren't working properly or are seized that could also cause binding, pull them out(the rubber boots just push on) and check they are sufficiently greased and slide in and out easily by hand.

If the pad moves easily in the carrier(pad ends sliding freely), the caliper moves smoothly in the carrier(caliper slider) and the piston moves freely in the caliper then there is no way the pads can bind really.
 
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cheers all.

didnt file pads as they were loose enough, and cleaned the caliper locaters up and wiped off any grease from back of pads ( #-o ), binding noise not evident anymore =D> .
been out for a spin and done some hard braking, the car was ppulling to one side loads for a while and then it was very/impossible to lock up the fronts, then after a couple of runs the brakes started biting more and smoking! there was also far less brake steer.

do the ds2500's need heating up before they bite or do you think that they were not bedded in enough (btw-i'm running Brembo max discs)?

cheers all
 

Ajr

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I didn't wear mine in as per the instructions, just avoid low speed braking, and definitely don't hold your foot on the brake while stationary, for at least a few weeks to a month after fitting them. Or if possible run the stoptech method which runs them through heat cycles but you have to find somewhere suitable to do it late at night which isn't easy. Or a track to yourself!

They're not great for the first stop from cold but after one stop from 30mph they should work as good as standard, they start to bite a bit harder after a few hard stops. I'm running brembo sport discs so different but not that dissimilar.
 
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Ajr-

any idea about the pitting? it was uneven across both pads on one wheel (didnt check other wheel) quite rough, should the pads be smooth across their entire surface?
 

Ajr

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Depends on the use they have had so far. Incorrect break in will cause problems. And if they've been binding then that won't have done them any good. I'd just keep using them for a bit now that they are working properly to see if they clear up a bit. They should be smooth, DS2500s are a metallic pad.
 
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spoke to soon!

squeaking/binding on front right even worse now. :(

having brake lines done tommorrow anything i should get mechanic to check whilst wheels are off.??


cheers again fellow Trophy heads.
 
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