5 Year Service & Cambelt help???

[wigstar1]

Hello,

My Trophy is all booked in for a Service & Cambelt in the next week and my pockets are literally empty. . .
Mainly due to the fact that this also comes in the month when the MOT, Insurance and Tax are all due. Ouch!

I was just wondering if there was anything else i should be aksing the guys carrying out the service to look for? Anything that is prone to wear or has been known to fail on the Trophys at this age?

Just want to make sure that everything is 100% with my T as i want it to stay in excellent condition.

I was basically just going to write out a list and leave it in the car asking the engineers to check a few things for me while the car is in.

Any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Wigstar1

 

[BoroGTI]

well i dont think they'll be able to tell if its on its way out but i would probably change the water pump aswell while its all out of the way

 

[wigstar1]

Probably a good shout.

I've heard people talking a lot about Ball Joints and parts in that general area of the car, as im sure you can guess from this post i love my Trophy but am not mechanically minded at all.

Just want to get them to do all the proper checks so i can get all the work done in one hit.

 

[Beef-Mc]

Dephaser seems to mentioned quite a lot, I think it's an extra £160 though, but if it does fail then it's auxbelt and cambelt off to fix.

 

[felix]

Here's what i'm going to do to mine at the belts service shortly:

cambelt & kit
aux belt &kit
spark plugs
air filter
oil & filter
fuel filter
flush coolant and refresh
refresh brake fluid
regas aircon

i think that's everything. Some people are doing the water pump and dephaser pulley but mines only on 28k, it's only me that's ever driven it and i'll get them done at year 10! Yes i plan to keep it beyond that! It still has all the original discs/pads so going to do the fluid.

What are your thoughts on these? Would you add anything?

Damper refurb next week at BG so the T is going to be expensive for a while but it's here to stay.

 

[marrow]

James - I would also replacie the waterpump. Where are you getting it done?

 

[felix]

Here:

Free courtesy car - you just replace any fuel you use - and labour is £35/hour. So do the math...


[attachment=0:wm9p9t1t]M&W autos.jpg[/attachment:wm9p9t1t]

 

[Jonc]

Just make sure you get assurance that they use the genuine Renault timing tools on the cambelt change. There's been a spate of people on cliosport.net taking their clios to non-Renault garages for the cambelt change, only to find that it wasn't done properly with the correct tools and ending up with a shafted engine.

 

[liam1610]

The timing tools dont need to be genuine sealey do some no genuine but for renault engines. As for timing belt the main tool needed is a camshaft locking tool the rest dont move and tensioner is usually 13mm nut and you use a allen key to adjust and tension thats it then turn engine over by hand and recheck timing marks before you put back together and start engine. If there a good garage and well known they will do a good job if they dont you can always go back to them and they will do it under warranty as all work is usually covered for 12 months

 

[Sir_Dave]

The timing tools dont need to be genuine sealey do some no genuine but for renault engines. As for timing belt the main tool needed is a camshaft locking tool the rest dont move and tensioner is usually 13mm nut and you use a allen key to adjust and tension thats it then turn engine over by hand and recheck timing marks before you put back together and start engine. If there a good garage and well known they will do a good job if they dont you can always go back to them and they will do it under warranty as all work is usually covered for 12 months

The Sealey ones bend iirc. Genuine or nothing imho.

Personally, id take it to a specialist. Mine was done by Renault by the previous owner & the timing was wrong ...

Also, remember that a customer wouldnt really know that the timing was off slightly unless they got it checked out by another decent Renault specialist anyway.

 

[sideways danny]

I'm not far from you if you want the car looked at

http://www.519automotive.co.uk/

Genuine tools only for me also.

 

[liam1610]

I not to sure on how the sealey stuff nowdays holds up however iv got the tools at my work and there sealey never broken but they are an older set. I must admit though iv heard of a few people having timing out but i cant see how people doing the jobs never mark them up and turn the engine over by hand then re-check timing marks i always double check timing marks so much damage can be done from being a tooth or 2 teeth out. Oh would just like to add im no renault specialist i work for local garage that specialise in porsche.

 

[Matbrown]

There are no timing marks.
All floating pulleys.


Mat.

 

[liam1610]

Your timing marks are the back of the cams under the bungs and the crank pulley has markings on from what i gather looking at Autodata more than likely it lines up with the mold on the block similar to the 1.2 clio. The idea of the camshaft locking tool is to make your life easier to fit the timing belt it can be done without but means you gota have a spare pare of hands to hold the cams in place while fitting the belt. Ive done it on a scooby before its similar to that as there under load which is why you lock the cams makes your life easier. The camshaft pulleys shouldnt move if they move with your hand they need replacing hence the dephaser pully fault. The tensioner and 2 guides get renewed anyway.

 

[sideways danny]

Your timing marks are the back of the cams under the bungs and the crank pulley has markings on from what i gather looking at Autodata more than likely it lines up with the mold on the block similar to the 1.2 clio. The idea of the camshaft locking tool is to make your life easier to fit the timing belt it can be done without but means you gota have a spare pare of hands to hold the cams in place while fitting the belt. Ive done it on a scooby before its similar to that as there under load which is why you lock the cams makes your life easier. The camshaft pulleys shouldnt move if they move with your hand they need replacing hence the dephaser pully fault. The tensioner and 2 guides get renewed anyway.

BAD advice, and all wrong TBH


Sealey/Laser/AST locking tools are all the same, and the all bend so they're useless

 

[sideways danny]

oh and Autodata should be completely disregarded when it comes to 2 litre renault engines. They're wrong with pretty much everything on the F7R and the F4R. That's including headbolt torques, cam bolt/nut tightening torques, and the entire cambelt change procedure

 

[liam1610]

Ok so where am i going wrong would be nice to know. As for the locking of the crank i had to just check this its done by a 8mm slot in the crank throught the block and the crank pulley does have a key on the crank nose it aligns up with the case moldings. The cams are done from the back of the cams the 2 slot. Im unsure as to where head torques come from in this? Also where are you getting different torque settings from? Im guessing renault direct.
Btw your rite when you say autodata is wrong its wrong on the movement in the cam pulleys as there is very very slight movement on the dephaser pulley.

 

[nickboazracing]

To get this thread back on topic, (and to end the egotistical debate measuring each others technical knowledge...)

Wigstar: what mileage are you on? From my research a few months ago and taking Northwest Performances advice, I didn't get the water pump done as they are yet to see a failed, leaky or noisy pump on 2.0l engines.

The bottom wishbones seem to be a common fast-wearing part, and they come with ball joints too. Made a massive difference to mine at about 67ishK miles.

Hope this helps!

 

[sideways danny]

Ok so where am i going wrong would be nice to know. As for the locking of the crank i had to just check this its done by a 8mm slot in the crank throught the block and the crank pulley does have a key on the crank nose it aligns up with the case moldings. The cams are done from the back of the cams the 2 slot. Im unsure as to where head torques come from in this? Also where are you getting different torque settings from? Im guessing renault direct.
Btw your rite when you say autodata is wrong its wrong on the movement in the cam pulleys as there is very very slight movement on the dephaser pulley.

there are keyways, but no key. the pulleys are floating. Part of the procedure is to rotate the belt with all the pulleys slack once the belt is tensioned to equalise the tension. Slackening of the pulleys, removal of the dephaser and thorough cleaning of all the mating faces is an important part of the procedure. If that isn't done, then it's wrong

The cams are aligned from the back, but it's very important to use the genuine renault pulley locking tool while the pulleys are tightened. If you dont do this, the cams will twist under tightening, by enough to throw out the timing.

I refer to tightening torques, as the cam pulleys require specific torques to be applied, as does the crank pulley bolt, and autodata list all of these wrong, amongst other torques. I have a copy of the genuine workshop manual, which is available to download from fastchips site.

 

[sideways danny]

To get this thread back on topic, (and to end the egotistical debate measuring each others technical knowledge...)

Wigstar: what mileage are you on? From my research a few months ago and taking Northwest Performances advice, I didn't get the water pump done as they are yet to see a failed, leaky or noisy pump on 2.0l engines.

The bottom wishbones seem to be a common fast-wearing part, and they come with ball joints too. Made a massive difference to mine at about 67ishK miles.

Hope this helps!

It's more specifically the balljoints rather than the wishbones that wear. I have sourced balljoints that fit the sport range properly now, after nothing being available apart from complete arms for years. Of course some places will want to sell you an arm every time