Tracking & susp settings

[g40steve]

Anyone recommend a company near Leics/notts??

Also what are the settings supposed to be??

Just want to get mine checked over ready for track day.

 

[andrewhewitt]

Steve guglielmi @ guglielmi motorsport did my 306 rallye. great friendly guy with a lot of sucessful championship winning cars and drives under his belt, based in daventry so not too far from you!!

 

[amm]

i have been recommended ND hill / hill power at measham near derby tel 01530273633 i will be getting the old girl in there for a camber adjustment the only question is 2 degrees or 3 :?

 

[Steve]

Anyone recommend a company near Leics/notts??

Also what are the settings supposed to be??

Just want to get mine checked over ready for track day.

I'll have the answer to that pretty soon, Gareth has the figures I think.

Andrew - 306 Rallye - great car, welcome to the forum.

 

[andrewhewitt]

Anyone recommend a company near Leics/notts??

Also what are the settings supposed to be??

Just want to get mine checked over ready for track day.

I'll have the answer to that pretty soon, Gareth has the figures I think.

Andrew - 306 Rallye - great car, welcome to the forum.

to be honest i have been reading this forum for about 6 months now, i love it!

 

[Neal]

i have been recommended ND hill / hill power at measham near derby tel 01530273633 i will be getting the old girl in there for a camber adjustment the only question is 2 degrees or 3 :?

2 it a road car not a racer car

 

[Steve]

I'll second that. 3 degrees would bring some serious camber-hunting/torque steer/uneven tyre wear for road use.

 

[FunkyMunky]

having had both my Trophy's setup, and in different ways i have quite a few different settings to post up which i can do later on

 

[donkey]

I've used as much as 3.5 degees negative camber - on track the tyre temperatures were too high on the inner edges and I've found that 2 degrees negative is a pretty good compromise for road and track, but you will get increased tyre wear. To use over 2 degrees negative effectively you need different tyres with stiffer sidewalls.

for what its worth I hate the secretive way that some of this information is disseminated across the net - leading to lots of disinformation and confusion, the internet should be used to improve our lives not some peoples wallets - so...my set up that I use on clios based on many testing sessions is

2 degrees negative front, 10-20 mins toe OUT front

and a standard rear settings

a very good starting point for a road and track clio

 

[Steve]

Thanks David, a flawless philosophy! Just a few questions (as I only asked about a thousand on Saturday);

Just to reiterate, what are the standard factory settings for the Trophy including tolerances? It's asked so much that I want to be able to point people to the answer.

What's thrust angle? GeorgeK asked if you measured it.

After having much fun playing with the dampers (so glad I said yes to removing the pins) what did you find was a good setting for the road, and what's good for the track ie. Goodwood?

 

[Cue]

G40Steve, pm me when you find an answer - I'll have a drive down and get mins done at the same time.

 

[George K]

Great to see that Donkey uses the same the settings as I use - particularly the front toe-out and as he has obviously doen far more trsting. More than the secretiveness, what iIfind frustrating is that people advocate other settings and do not reveal or understand that they have been influenced by other variables such as more camber or different ET.

Thrust angle is when the toe-in at the rear is different on each side, leading to average of the two not pointing along the centre line of the car. I have come across cases when the toverall oe setting looks right, but one wheel is toeing in and the other toeing out - makes for very inconsistent handling. It used to be known as crabbing. It was this on the MX5 that got me into the whole exercise of working on road car geometry and then of trying to understand the effect of ET and scrub radius - hence the above comments.

 

[g40steve]

Right, phoned hillpower they don't do it?

Tried a company in Notts who charge £32+vat, but said rears if needed would be extra.

Asked if they had info for trophy, got told if not on system only 10 mins to get it faxed over, hence why i need to know what the settings should be.

Don't want tommy tomato setting up ike a 1.4 dynamique.

 

[Steve]

Great to see that Donkey uses the same the settings as I use - particularly the front toe-out and as he has obviously doen far more trsting. More than the secretiveness, what iIfind frustrating is that people advocate other settings and do not reveal or understand that they have been influenced by other variables such as more camber or different ET.

Thrust angle is when the toe-in at the rear is different on each side, leading to average of the two not pointing along the centre line of the car. I have come across cases when the toverall oe setting looks right, but one wheel is toeing in and the other toeing out - makes for very inconsistent handling. It used to be known as crabbing. It was this on the MX5 that got me into the whole exercise of working on road car geometry and then of trying to understand the effect of ET and scrub radius - hence the above comments.

Ah yes, we did talk about this, but only in relation to the front because I couldn't work out how the laser device could measure the angle of each wheel until David explained it compares the distance between the two wheels from front to back and if it was out the steering would be off-centre. Don't know how this applies to the rears which have a fixed angle.

 

[George K]

Steve - the problems at the rear can arise from different production tolerances or the beam mountings being out of line - you may be too young to remember how Minis used to crab when the rear subframe was misaligned. Certainly this applies more to cars with adjustable rear suspension - Imprezzas are a good example, but most multi-link set ups have some adjustability built into them.

 

[Steve]

I know a little bit about mini subframes as I helped my friend fix up his '93 Cooper and his were shot. I do like being refered to as 'maybe too young to remember' though. :lol:

 

[George K]

Steeve, Not meant to be patronising I assure - just a reflection of my own reality - the first racing Mini with which I was involved was in the mid 60's!

 

[Steve]

Lucky man, Austin Cooper S, still the best Mini ever made.

 

[g40steve]

What settings should i be using for best compromise??

 

[g40steve]

Hello, can someone tell me what the optimum settings need to be.