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Hi all,

I know there's been a past discusion on the ball joints etc, but can't seem to find any details. Looking at past posts, it seems that people have just put up with Renault saying you need the complete lower wishbone with the 'BOLTED' on lower ball joint.

Anyways, my car has only covered 22,000 miles and really don't see why I need to replace the whole lot.
Have been looking at Europarts are they seem to supply 2 types. I've brought both of them, as I was unsure plus they were only 9,50 and 12.50 or there abouts. Looking at them they look identical execpt the more expensive one has the split bolt. Over the weekend I took the front wheel off and checked them over the original , they look identical other than the 2 holes in the flange seem to be for a M10 ,where as the Trophy has M12. Its just a matter of drilling out the flange to execpt the bigger bolts.

Has anyone used separate lower ball joints ? and what are your thoughts on this ?

Cheers

Chris
 
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WOW, what a huge response..... :D

I will take some pics of the original and new part. If this works (hoping it will) I will let you guys know about it.
If it saves replacing the lower wishbone unit, it has to be a plus, time and cost wise.

Chris
 

Cue

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power ranger is the the best person the answer this i'd have thought - i don't know of anyone who's replaced them yet.
 
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Cheers Duffer,

Had a look through them.... :)

I've had Renault look at mine, they said that the drivers side has slight play, but wouldn't fail the mot.
I gave them the stand alone ball joint, and they weren't prepared to do the job basically, because Renault only supply the complete wishbone, they quoted something like 150 notes to do one side. This annoyed me really as I know they are bolted on items, and would only take 1/2hr to do.

I get squeeking after an afternoon of enthusiastic driving, hence my enquiry. I would like to get it sorted before the Cadwell trackday. Reading through past posts 95% say its the lower ball joint.

Chris
 
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As from Renault the ball joints themselves are actually pressed in! Making that reason why the whole wish bone is needed plus the time to drill out the ball joint largen the holes bolt the new one back in and refit the wisbone you could have it fitted and complete and have the car out the door in half the time! It sjust one of them Renault things unfortantley!
I have know people to just replace the ball joint but have problems with the bolts coming loose or there becomes more movement in the ball joint!
With it being quite an important aspect of the car my recommendation would be replace the whole wishbone itself that way no problems if they should a rise! Plus if its a OEM part you will get a years warranty with the part if it fails again!
Saying all that my N/S balljoint has play so getting a WISHBONE fitted at the weekend!

Thats my 2p worth anyway! :lol:
 
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Hi power ranger,

Cheers for the info. Like you say at least with the OEM part you get a yrs warranty with it.
I just find it frustrating thats all.. #-o
 
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when I had some work done under warranty I was told that the parts do not come with a years warranty, so im not sure you will get a year with this part.
 

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You can get the seperately from renault, OEM Renault number: 7701468411. WIll say they are for a scenic but they are the same M12 holed ones IIRC.

Don't blame me if i'm wrong though, i bought the whole wishbones and fitted them myself, cost about £90 i think. My car is on 50k though so i wanted piece of mind that i've got new bushes too.
 
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Cheers guys,

Surely the lower ball joint is wear and tear, plus the T will be 4 in June....

Ajr, cheers will look into it, that sounds like its bolted on rather than pressed in.
Agree with you if its done 50k then its worth doing the whole lot.

Well I've decided to wait till after Cadwell park day out, and put up with the squeaking and creaking, rather wear out an original one then having a new one fitted before hand....
 
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power ranger said:
As from Renault the ball joints themselves are actually pressed in! Making that reason why the whole wish bone is needed plus the time to drill out the ball joint largen the holes bolt the new one back in and refit the wisbone you could have it fitted and complete and have the car out the door in half the time!

The ball joints aren't pressed in to the wishbone, they are just bolted in, its a straightforward 2 nuts and bolts to undo the balljoint from the whshbone, you slot the new bolljoint into the same 2 holes and do up the new nuts and bolts supplied, then fit the joint back into the hub, easy peasy. 45 mins to do both sides max.
 
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I stopped the squeaking by poking a small hole in the rubber gaitor with a pen and then forcing some grease in there. I have been meaning to get the wishbone replaced but 6 months and a few track days later I still don't have a problem.
Does anybody know how to get these bits near the wheels to survive track days. I had the above problem and also the rubber on the steering arm joints has perished (presumably from the heat).
I assume I am not too far away from having to replace all these bits because the joints aren't protected properly and it would be good to try to upgrade to something that can stand the heat.
 
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I replaced both arms, realise i could have just replaced the ball joints but my way of thinking is if your going to take something to bits you might as well replace as much as you can whilst your on. If i remember correctly i paid £118 for both sides, i know they can be bought for cheaper now but at the time this was the cheapest i could get, fitting was £40.
 
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Hi All,

Well I've finally got round to doing my ball joint. In the end ordered an other one (M12 bolts etc) as quoted from AJR.
What I found was that the lower wishbone does indeed have to M12 bolts securing the ball joint flange, however
the outer bolt is infact pressed into the lower wishbone, so 'poweranger' your kind of half right :wink:.

The orginal ball joint was totally shot, which is scary as the car has only done 25k.
When the mileage gets up to 40-50k then I will replace the complete lower wishbone unit, and probably do both sides.

My creaking has gone, no more knocking, as has the twitchy-ness under hard braking on bumby roads. =D>

Chris
 

Cue

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mine will be getting done in 3k, along with the full 36k service - so new aux belt n' kit and i'll through in a remap - could be an expensive october - when it'll be due.
 
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chrish27 said:
Hi All,

Well I've finally got round to doing my ball joint. In the end ordered an other one (M12 bolts etc) as quoted from AJR.
What I found was that the lower wishbone does indeed have to M12 bolts securing the ball joint flange, however
the outer bolt is infact pressed into the lower wishbone, so 'poweranger' your kind of half right :wink:.

The orginal ball joint was totally shot, which is scary as the car has only done 25k.
When the mileage gets up to 40-50k then I will replace the complete lower wishbone unit, and probably do both sides.

My creaking has gone, no more knocking, as has the twitchy-ness under hard braking on bumby roads. =D>

Chris

Hi Chris - this makes interesting reading.
Sounds like it's only possible to accutately assess ball joint wear by actually replacing them?
When were you experiencing creaking and knocking - normal driving?
M
 
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Cue said:
mine will be getting done in 3k, along with the full 36k service - so new aux belt n' kit and i'll through in a remap - could be an expensive october - when it'll be due.

Cue, sounds like you've yet to do your aux belt kit ??? There was a huge panic on here a while back saying 3yrs or 36k which ever is the sooner, originally 5yrs 36k something like that anyway. Still October's not too far away.
I keep thinking about a re-map, what route will you take ?

Hope your saving now :D
Chris
 
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marrow said:
Hi Chris - this makes interesting reading.
Sounds like it's only possible to accutately assess ball joint wear by actually replacing them?
When were you experiencing creaking and knocking - normal driving?
M

Hi marrow,

I don't know, but what seems to be the case is it will pass an MOT !!, I think poweranger had the same issue.
I don't know how they test the ball joint, but with the lower wishbone pushing up (from the anti roll bar) and the strut pushing down, I guess its compressing the ball joint quite a bit so there would be very little movement.

When I first got the car back in November last year, normal driving was fine.
Taking it out for a blast for the afternoon, coming back home (normal driving) I would then get the creaking. Since then its got progressly worse, as in normal driving it was creaking especally when driving in slow traffic. What wasn't very nice was the braking especially on bumpy roads it would wonder from left to right. This seems to be ok now. [-o<
 
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I would have thought that you would be able to tell by the "wobbly" stage, but you would need to remove it to check. Good opportunity to lube up though.
 
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