Best engine oil for trophy
Hi I always use Motul High Performance 300v Engine Oil from ktec, available in a Renault recommended viscocity is this superb high performance, fully synthetic engine oil. The 300V oil features unique double ester technology which prevents the oil molecules breaking down, this results in a constant oil pressure which is essential for good engine life. This oil is very well proven in high end motorsport such as the 24h Le Mans races.
To carry out and oil change on a Clio RS 182 you will need 3 tins of 300V, as each tin is only 2 litres. Its not cheap at £28.80 a tin your looking at near £90 just for oil however it does leave you abit left over as a top up.
To carry out and oil change on a Clio RS 182 you will need 3 tins of 300V, as each tin is only 2 litres. Its not cheap at £28.80 a tin your looking at near £90 just for oil however it does leave you abit left over as a top up.
I just use Halfords fully synth 5w-40 as it meets all the requirements and standards stipulated by Renault and usually there's an offer/promotion on at the time of purchase. Personally I don't see the point of spending lots on fancy oils, unless of course you are going to enter a 24hr endurance race. Just change it regularly.
I use Motul Xcess 5W40. Costs about £40 from Opie for a service pack ...
Has to be Silkolene ProS 5W-40 now TITAN Pro Race S 5W-40 for me too.
Used it for nearly ten years in road cars and rally. Not had a single oil related issue yet, touch wood. Very similar characteristics to Motul 300V, both true fully synthetic esther based oil, not a drop of 'mineral oil' in them.
The Titan is cheaper than the Motul and Opie usually have a good offer, as well as getting a discount if you are a 'member'. Regular changing is key, spring and autumn ideal. Personally I wouldn't use a Halfords own brand, made to a price point for Halfords by an outsourced manufacturer; yes it 'complies' to API standards, but I personally think there are better oils out there.
Used it for nearly ten years in road cars and rally. Not had a single oil related issue yet, touch wood. Very similar characteristics to Motul 300V, both true fully synthetic esther based oil, not a drop of 'mineral oil' in them.
The Titan is cheaper than the Motul and Opie usually have a good offer, as well as getting a discount if you are a 'member'. Regular changing is key, spring and autumn ideal. Personally I wouldn't use a Halfords own brand, made to a price point for Halfords by an outsourced manufacturer; yes it 'complies' to API standards, but I personally think there are better oils out there.
Halford's own brand is produced for them by Comma and is bascially a re-brand of their Syner-G product which is a hydro-cracked mineral based oil where crude oil has been refined to the point where the molecular structure has completely changed. TITAN Pro Race S is an excellent ester based oil in that it truly is completely man-made and thus is a fully synthetic oil in the truest sense. These types of oil will no doubt offer the best protection in the most extreme conditions.
Engine oil can be such a contentious issue and people tend to stick with what they know. There have been many threads on this and many other forums regarding this subject over the years. But my take on it is that whilst ester/pao based oils is a superior product to a hydro-cracked oil, the Clio is at the end of the day still "just" a massed produced road car with a mass produced engine which may do the odd track day. It doesn't have a race engine and the F4R engine is not that highly tuned/stressed a unit, which is why for me these oils are a little bit of an overkill, especially as the oil gets changed every 6k/12k miles (depending on individuals preference).
I'm not saying stick any stuff in the engine, oil is there is lubricate and protect, but cut through the hype and marketing spiel and as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers requirements and specification, these oils will do fine. I've yet to hear of a failure of an engine or a dramatic loss of performance in a road car due to using the correct spec hydro-cracked synthetics and many are still going way beyond 100k miles. But if you want absolute piece of mind that you have the best stuff in your engine or you plan to turn your car into a track weapon, then go for the expensive stuff. Whatever oil you do get, just change it regularly, the oil will contain many contaminants through use regardless whether it be hydro-cracked or ester/pao oil.
Just to note that the manufacturers specified intervals is 12k or 12 months whichever is sooner as it has been known that some dealers insist it's 18k miles or 24 months which it is most definitely not!
Hope this helps :grin:
Engine oil can be such a contentious issue and people tend to stick with what they know. There have been many threads on this and many other forums regarding this subject over the years. But my take on it is that whilst ester/pao based oils is a superior product to a hydro-cracked oil, the Clio is at the end of the day still "just" a massed produced road car with a mass produced engine which may do the odd track day. It doesn't have a race engine and the F4R engine is not that highly tuned/stressed a unit, which is why for me these oils are a little bit of an overkill, especially as the oil gets changed every 6k/12k miles (depending on individuals preference).
I'm not saying stick any stuff in the engine, oil is there is lubricate and protect, but cut through the hype and marketing spiel and as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers requirements and specification, these oils will do fine. I've yet to hear of a failure of an engine or a dramatic loss of performance in a road car due to using the correct spec hydro-cracked synthetics and many are still going way beyond 100k miles. But if you want absolute piece of mind that you have the best stuff in your engine or you plan to turn your car into a track weapon, then go for the expensive stuff. Whatever oil you do get, just change it regularly, the oil will contain many contaminants through use regardless whether it be hydro-cracked or ester/pao oil.
Just to note that the manufacturers specified intervals is 12k or 12 months whichever is sooner as it has been known that some dealers insist it's 18k miles or 24 months which it is most definitely not!
Hope this helps :grin:
I've always used the Titan/Fuchs as posted by other users. Had my T since new and never had any problems that are oil related. Opie always have good deals on that make it easy/cheap to change the oil pretty frequently between services.
Jonc this came up in another post so just need to clear this up about the service interval which is 2 years. It something i don't recommend i changed mine on a 6 month basis due to stop start journeys causing more engine wear than normal, and i would recommend at least an oil and filter change yearly.
Another thing is only use 5/40 in this country 0/40 is too thin and i have seen not on this engine but other engines damage to bearings by using a oil that is lower than recommended.
[attachment=0:1v2d1mhp]Service Interval.jpg[/attachment:1v2d1mhp]
Another thing is only use 5/40 in this country 0/40 is too thin and i have seen not on this engine but other engines damage to bearings by using a oil that is lower than recommended.
[attachment=0:1v2d1mhp]Service Interval.jpg[/attachment:1v2d1mhp]
