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I've had a search on the forum but managed to miss this if it's already been posted.

Does anyone have the 4-wheel geometry settings for the Trophy as it rolls out of the factory at Dieppe?
 
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I don't - but you should be able to get it from most laser alignment places, I had mine reset here in France after some suspension nods and the place I went to had all the factory settings on their computer; I had a bit of a job getting tem to set non standard settings at first. In factory set up (with no adjustable camber bolts or shimming), apart from toe, nothing is adjustable anyhow..
 
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eljeffo64 said:
In factory set up (with no adjustable camber bolts or shimming), apart from toe, nothing is adjustable anyhow..

Good point. It's only the toe that's adjustable, right enough.

I just worry that they'll only have 182 or 182 Cup settings and not the Trophy. I'll soon find out when I ask.
 

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All the geometry settings for Cliosport models are in here mate. Same as 182 Cup iirc.

Ben :)
 

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after dampers have been taken off and reconditioned do you have to have the geometry all set up again? or will it be right just bolting them back on?
 
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I would have the geo re- done, the relative ride heights will be different (to those with the tired dampers) after the refurb. If nothing had been renewed there is probably little risk that the toe will change ( the rubber top mounts might re-seat in a slightly different posn if the turret holes are not round due to the clonking mod for example).
 

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As above...

I wouldn't say it was compulsory as you are just re bolting the dampers back on in the same way. Its very unlikely the geometry be exactly the same as before but it should not be too far out. It is worth while getting it re done, I opted to change the geometry after having my dampers serviced. Its a pain for me as the nearest decent (Hunter) 4 wheel alignment centre is 2 hours away.
 
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BenG said:
As above...

I wouldn't say it was compulsory as you are just re bolting the dampers back on in the same way. Its very unlikely the geometry be exactly the same as before but it should not be too far out. It is worth while getting it re done, I opted to change the geometry after having my dampers serviced. Its a pain for me as the nearest decent (Hunter) 4 wheel alignment centre is 2 hours away.

Is the price difference between a Hunter place and the local tyre garage worth it? I had my dampers done a few weeks a go so thinking about getting it checked out to be on the safe side.

Local garage is about 20 quid but I don't have that much trust in them tbh.

Rich
 

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The average price for the wheel alignment on a Hunter system is around £60 -70. They check Camber, Caster, Front and Rear toe (tracking) and Thrust angle. They are alot more accurate than the local garage equipment. Its worth the extra money as you get a more accurate end result and all angles etc are checked, most of the local garages just check Toe.

Geometry.jpg

Ben
 
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All the geometry settings for Cliosport models are in here mate. Same as 182 Cup iirc.

Ben :)

Thanks for uploading this Ben!

Looking at 182 Cup settings it suggest rear toe is 20' toe out +/- 30' (whereas other variants suggest toe in)

The other settings look correct
Front Camber -45' +/- 30' both sides
Front Toe TOTAL -12' +/- 5min
Rear Camber -1d -30' +/- 20'

Is it possible the rear toe should say toe in?

About 10' toe out each side is about right (or parallel if want rear to be more lively)

Having run -10' toe each side rear; car was loads of of fun to drive but very oversteery in the wet
 

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Thanks for uploading this Ben!

Looking at 182 Cup settings it suggest rear toe is 20' toe out +/- 30' (whereas other variants suggest toe in)

The other settings look correct
Front Camber -45' +/- 30' both sides
Front Toe TOTAL -12' +/- 5min
Rear Camber -1d -30' +/- 20'

Is it possible the rear toe should say toe in?

About 10' toe out each side is about right (or parallel if want rear to be more lively)

Having run -10' toe each side rear; car was loads of of fun to drive but very oversteery in the wet
I'd say any sort of rear toe out on a small fwd ROAD car is going to make it an utter handful and potentially quite dangerous particularly under hard braking. Track or hillclimb set-up is obviously going to be different as in that instance a very mobile rear end might be something you'd want, though I'd still call rear toe out a bit of a "hero" setting... :LOL:

As standard, the cars will run toe-in on the rear axle, off the top of my head I can't remember how much.
 
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