OIL
Single estate extra virgin olive oil
or try...
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-find ... der-2.aspx
or try...
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-find ... der-2.aspx
Anything 5w-40 fully synthetic that meets ACEA A3 B3 B4 standard, don't see the point in spend mega money on PAO/Ester based oil when you won't notice any difference whatsoever. Before my service, I changed my oil with Halfords 5w-40 fully synthetic as they had an offer on at the time.
there's a thread two from a while back which sells the benefits of the higher end oils, i think guy from opie oils started the thread (ok it may be a biased view as he has a vested interest in selling oils).
I can't remember the exact reasoning but do remember that i accepted the benefits of spending more on oil....
I can't remember the exact reasoning but do remember that i accepted the benefits of spending more on oil....
There's also a thread on another forum where someone took a sample of Halfords fully synthetic oil to be chemically analysed:
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-gene ... d-oil.html
My car is not heavily tuned or has forced induction, so for me I think Halfords stuff more than meets my car's needs and have had no ill effects. Save your money and don't fall for the marketing hype.
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-gene ... d-oil.html
My car is not heavily tuned or has forced induction, so for me I think Halfords stuff more than meets my car's needs and have had no ill effects. Save your money and don't fall for the marketing hype.
that thread (inbetween the infantile comments there are a few good facts) does though confirm that most oils:
Shell Helix and Comma (halfords) are class III (mineral based)
Millars is a combo of class IV and III (mixture of mineral and fully syth base)
Silkolene is class IV, which is fully synthetic in the true sense so contains no mineral deposits (ester).
This confirms what i thought, useful info - but just missing mobil from that list imo. All we're missing is the benfits of fully sythetic (ester) against so called fully sythetic mineral based oils, to which the answer is hidden on here somewhere....
I found it - oil facts 'fully synthetic' oils
I knew there was a benefit to using etser oils over mineral oils - enough for a yorkshire man to part with £50 as opposed to £15 lol.
Shell Helix and Comma (halfords) are class III (mineral based)
Millars is a combo of class IV and III (mixture of mineral and fully syth base)
Silkolene is class IV, which is fully synthetic in the true sense so contains no mineral deposits (ester).
This confirms what i thought, useful info - but just missing mobil from that list imo. All we're missing is the benfits of fully sythetic (ester) against so called fully sythetic mineral based oils, to which the answer is hidden on here somewhere....
I found it - oil facts 'fully synthetic' oils
I knew there was a benefit to using etser oils over mineral oils - enough for a yorkshire man to part with £50 as opposed to £15 lol.
this is also useful: oil - you get what you pay for
so to answer your question the best = silkolene proS, especially if you intend on using the rev range to it's fullest
the best value would be difficult to calculate as engine wear rates, use, length of ownership, engine rebuild costs, driving style, oil change intervals, types of filter used etc etc - that i can't advise on as again i'd always go with the best but if you on a budget and don't care about the car once it's out of your ownership then the Halfords/comma route is probably a good choice.
so to answer your question the best = silkolene proS, especially if you intend on using the rev range to it's fullest
the best value would be difficult to calculate as engine wear rates, use, length of ownership, engine rebuild costs, driving style, oil change intervals, types of filter used etc etc - that i can't advise on as again i'd always go with the best but if you on a budget and don't care about the car once it's out of your ownership then the Halfords/comma route is probably a good choice.
is1, no there wasn't but i've subsequently learned that it's ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin)i.e. cat IV which is the top grade.
Yeah I've read all those before, but then I think if you're in the business of selling oils, then I wouldn't say oilman's comments are completely impartial. But to your question, Mobil 1 (0w-40) is also a hydrocracked mineral and was confirmed by Mobil technician's response on the Fiat Coupe forum many years ago.
But you know what? I do my own oil changes and I've been running my cars on hydrocracked synthetic oil for years in my Fiat, Audi, BMW and Renaults and had no engine failures, poor running, sludge, etc my Trophy is as fit as a fiddle. :wink: and I even use Tesco petrol instead of Shell sometimes!
But you know what? I do my own oil changes and I've been running my cars on hydrocracked synthetic oil for years in my Fiat, Audi, BMW and Renaults and had no engine failures, poor running, sludge, etc my Trophy is as fit as a fiddle. :wink: and I even use Tesco petrol instead of Shell sometimes!
Can't beat the ester based PAO top synthetics IMO. Particulary Silkolene Pro S (now Fuchs Titan I think).
A very well known Herefordshire potato farmer used to have huge issues having to rebuild the naturally aspirated Opel DTM or ice racing engine used in his rally car after every event; when using hydro cracked oils/semi synth. Switched to Silkolene and went on a long stretch of no engine failures or engine related issues on event. Also hugely reduced the number of engine builds per annum.
I've always used Silkolene. In rally car and road.
Most important thing to do, no matter whether mineral, hydro cracked or full synth is to use the correct viscocity and change regularly (change far more regularly if mineral). Don't put a 10w60 in it thinking it'll give better high temperature protection either. It 'kind of' will, but that viscocity will cause more drag than 5w40 or 10w40, and drag means stress on components and less bhp.
We're splitting hairs here for road use anyway, and the last thing I want to do is get into a who's right or wrong on oil. But I know some love piece of mind and would rather spend more that £15 on oils that have a greater 'perceived' value.
Can't go wrong with Silkolene ProS, or Motul do a full PAO ester oil too I think. Happy oil change.
A very well known Herefordshire potato farmer used to have huge issues having to rebuild the naturally aspirated Opel DTM or ice racing engine used in his rally car after every event; when using hydro cracked oils/semi synth. Switched to Silkolene and went on a long stretch of no engine failures or engine related issues on event. Also hugely reduced the number of engine builds per annum.
I've always used Silkolene. In rally car and road.
Most important thing to do, no matter whether mineral, hydro cracked or full synth is to use the correct viscocity and change regularly (change far more regularly if mineral). Don't put a 10w60 in it thinking it'll give better high temperature protection either. It 'kind of' will, but that viscocity will cause more drag than 5w40 or 10w40, and drag means stress on components and less bhp.
We're splitting hairs here for road use anyway, and the last thing I want to do is get into a who's right or wrong on oil. But I know some love piece of mind and would rather spend more that £15 on oils that have a greater 'perceived' value.
Can't go wrong with Silkolene ProS, or Motul do a full PAO ester oil too I think. Happy oil change.
gordon, you've echod my comments. Jonc, as i say it's splitting hairs depending on use of the car.