camber bolts!

[Matt X2C]

A few questions on these as I don't really know much about them!

can you just buy a set of camber bolts i.e. h&r and get them fitted?

any need for lowering springs or anything?

how much are they and how much are they fitted/set-up?

do they drastically improve handling on their own?

any downsides to fitting them?

Cheers!

 

[OliS]

Yes, you can just buy a set and fit them, but the only real advantage of fitting them is to get it done by a specialist and dial in the required camber.

No need for lowering springs or uprated dampers, they are used purely to adjust the camber.

The only kits i know about are H & R and Whiteline, but I am not sure how much they retail for, although a simple internet search will give you this info.

When I got my camber adjusted, it cost me £110 cash, but the company I use Aurok, used the std bolts, and machined the shoulder of the bolt to allow the desired camber to be dialled in.

Not had any downsides in the 18 months I've been running increased camber, there is not even any noticable increase in tyre wear, however I do rotate my tyres quite often.

Would be worth searching on the forum about this subject, as it has been tackled in quite some depth in the past!

 

[Gazza]

I had this done the same way as olis, Mark fish did it for me when i had the 24k service. I just had my camber adjusted to the factory setting as it was out of spec out the factory as I believe many of the trophies are.

Mark told me the camber bolts were around 50 pounds but i went for the machined option.

 

[George K]

Mine cost less than £5 as I used 12 mm aircraft spec bolts and nuts, which give the right amount of camber change. Personally I would be nervous about machining the bolts as this can easily create stress points - the tightening torque is very high, about 180 NMM if i remember correctly

 

[Matt X2C]

cheers guys.

and its a worthwhile modification is it then?

increased handling?

how much did Mr Fish charge?

 

[Gazza]

It was an extra ontop of the 24kservice in which I had new pads, price for the lot was 300. Thinking about it im not sure if he machined the whole or the bolt. But im sure mark knows what he is doing.

For me it wasn't a mod as it is how the car should of left the factory.

I did see an improvement

 

[OliS]

My geometry was all over the place from the factory, so for me and my Trophy it was certainly worthwhile, it has made the car feel a lot straighter if that makes any sense! Whilst it does now have even more of a tendency to follow road cambers, I find it more stable under braking and easier to place during cornering.

I do however agree with George's comment regarding being nervous about machining the bolts (who wouldn't be!), so I would either follow George's route of sourcing your own bolts, or get one of the sets available on the market.

 

[Neal]

I have a set of H & R camber bolts for sell at the end of august if your interested £35 can set the camber up for you as well for £60 all in

 

[jezza l]

I have the H & R bolts. Fitted/setup but Donkey from here. Can't remember the price.

Certainly noticed a difference in how it corners. I'm glad I did this little mod. The car does now skip across the road a little on a couple of bumpy/rough corners on some backroad I know very well. As standard it cruised over them but then again now I am able to take more speed in to the corners so perhaps it just that!

 

[Matt X2C]

I have a set of H & R camber bolts for sell at the end of august if your interested £35 can set the camber up for you as well for £60 all in

very tempting!

so what camber do people run? 2 degrees?

and do you adjust the back too or not?

 

[George K]

Front at 2.00 degrees - leave back at 1.45'. The back is adjusted by quite expensive shims - the only issue at the back to call for any change is if the toe or thrust angle is out by more than say 20'..

A lot has been written about the front toe settings after increasing the negative camber -all iIcan say is that i am very happy at 10' out. This will vary depending on how much camber you run and also if the ET is chnaged (normally a reduction)

Just to clarify one issue, although I am less thna happy about machining the standard bolts, enlarging the top of the bolts holes in the flanges that join onto the hub carrier should not be an issue - for anyone doing this work themsleves do check the required torque setting and make sure that you have a suitably hefty torque wrench.

 

[7MAT]

Matt pop down to Mark Fish's as he'll sort it all out for you (only 45mins away from Croydon).

I've had mine done for a while now, Mark checked the rear and said it was okay, adjusted the front to just pass -2 degrees. Didn't have camber bolts fitted as he machined the extra room for the adjustment.