Rust Proofing and Protection - Your Experiences

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Hi all, as our Trophy's are 15 years old now, I thought it might be prudent to think about some decent rust proofing and protection.
I have booked my car in to the Rust.co.uk specialists in Spalding in a couple of weeks for their "Full Hot Fog Corrolan Rust Proofing Service".

I'm keen to hear about any of your experiences, either with them or other companies, or even Corrolan vs Waxoil etc.

Cheers,
Will
 
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Definitely you could eat you dinner off the bottom of it:)
 
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I was trying to find a garage locally up the north east of Scotland that do it but didn’t have any luck ?
 

TheSaint

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Hi all, as our Trophy's are 15 years old now, I thought it might be prudent to think about some decent rust proofing and protection.
I have booked my car in to the Rust.co.uk specialists in Spalding in a couple of weeks for their "Full Hot Fog Corrolan Rust Proofing Service".

I'm keen to hear about any of your experiences, either with them or other companies, or even Corrolan vs Waxoil etc.

Cheers,
Will
Interesting. I’m thinking about doing much the same sort of thing, what are they charging if you don’t mind me asking ?
 
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Thanks all, I'm sure Frayz will be along soon!

@TheSaint yeah no problem, they quoted £545 + VAT.

I plan on asking them to photograph the process, I'm happy to share them here if anyone's interested?
 

TheSaint

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Thanks all, I'm sure Frayz will be along soon!

@TheSaint yeah no problem, they quoted £545 + VAT.

I plan on asking them to photograph the process, I'm happy to share them here if anyone's interested?
I for one would be interested in the process and end result
 
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For my own peace of mind, I've decided to undertake a little more research before committing getting RustBusters to work on my Trophy; although I was impressed with the service and I like the idea of a translucent coating rather than black/brown "hiding" the car, I hadn't actually heard of their Corrolan product.

I've spoken to a few other suppliers and looked into some other products. It turns out the University of Hertfordshire was sponsored (by Bilt Hamber) in 2013 to review and test many of the common products on the market.

Given the sponsor, I'm taking the results with a pinch of salt. However, the results do seem to speak for themselves, Bilt Hamber's DYNAX S50 seems to be the best product - Find the report here

As for next steps I plan to speak to other Rust Proofing providers (and RustBusters) to understand why they are not using this and why so many use Dinitrol; I'll keep the forum in the loop and once I decide on a product and a provider I may as well see if they'll offer a forum discount.
 

J4RVIS

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Please do, I was thinking of doing the same to mine.
 
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So, after several more hours calling different companies, validating their approach and chosen rust proofing material I've bitten the bullet and decided to get my car rustproofed with a range of Bilt Hamber products.

I ended up contacting Pete Hamber and discussing his product. I then found a garage who offered Bilt Hamber, Dinatrol and Waxoyl and asked for their opinion on each product. It turns out they used Bilt Hamber products on their own cars, which suggests to me that despite the brown-ish colour it offers the best protection.

In the end, I decided to go with the same chaps that offered a range of products, primarily because it seemed like they really took their time and had a meticulous and careful approach. The Trophy will be going in this Saturday and will be with them for about a week., this is to ensure that any rust treatment additives are left to do its stuff and let the car dry out completely.

I've asked them to take photos of the entire process and will share them with you all. I believe the total cost will be a little more than the Rust Busters at ~£600.
 

TheSaint

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Thanks for the update @will2705 I for one will look forward to seeing the pictures and hearing your thoughts
 
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Im just on with some rust prevention on my trophy and would definitely recommend taking the rear 1/4 trim panels out to get to the inside of the sills. Ive also taken the front wings off and injected the sills with bilt hamber dynax from both ends.
 
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Amazed at how these resist the rust to be honest, I don't think I've noticed anything other than a tiny bubble on a rear arch that was a couple of mm in length, and that's living near the sea and high miles on the car. Interesting to know the hotspots for rust and areas to protect. I've seen lots of fuel filler cap area horrors before and surprised some go like this.
 
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Amazed at how these resist the rust to be honest, I don't think I've noticed anything other than a tiny bubble on a rear arch that was a couple of mm in length, and that's living near the sea and high miles on the car. Interesting to know the hotspots for rust and areas to protect. I've seen lots of fuel filler cap area horrors before and surprised some go like this.
All jacking points will need checking, the void between the front wheel arch liner and the front doors, the metal work underneath front and rear bumpers - these areas only seem to have thin layers of paint etc, rear subframe, the join where they welded in the panel where the spare wheel would have been under the boot - this will be hidden by the exhaust shield. These are just a few I can think of to add to those already mentioned and I’m sure others will add more.
 
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I think they are definatley fairing better than most stuff from the period. Mine showed no rust at all externaly just a tiny bit around the fuel filler hinge. Im glad taken the wings and side skirts off because Ive found some areas that could have turned into a problem if left. The front wing brackets were weirdly rusty I wondered if they were put on after the shell was galvanised as everything else in that area was spotless. The only other bit of surface rust was caused by the jacking points being bent. image2.jpegimage1.jpeg
Ive used mostly bilt hamber stuff im really impressed so far. Used deox gel on the rust its by no means effortless but with a bit of patience it gets the steel perfectly clean with no trace of rust whatsoever. Then ive used por15 (not cheap but supposedly one of the best anti rust paints out there) followed by stonechip and capsicum top coat. Once it was all painted I used dynax s50 with the lance to cover the inside of the sills, a posts, and the box sections on the inner wings. I covered the whole area with dynax ub before I put the wing back on. That's why the paints all dull. Im pretty happy now its as well protected as it could be.
 
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I think they are definatley fairing better than most stuff from the period. Mine showed no rust at all externaly just a tiny bit around the fuel filler hinge. Im glad taken the wings and side skirts off because Ive found some areas that could have turned into a problem if left. The front wing brackets were weirdly rusty I wondered if they were put on after the shell was galvanised as everything else in that area was spotless. The only other bit of surface rust was caused by the jacking points being bent. View attachment 28610View attachment 28611
Ive used mostly bilt hamber stuff im really impressed so far. Used deox gel on the rust its by no means effortless but with a bit of patience it gets the steel perfectly clean with no trace of rust whatsoever. Then ive used por15 (not cheap but supposedly one of the best anti rust paints out there) followed by stonechip and capsicum top coat. Once it was all painted I used dynax s50 with the lance to cover the inside of the sills, a posts, and the box sections on the inner wings. I covered the whole area with dynax ub before I put the wing back on. That's why the paints all dull. Im pretty happy now its as well protected as it could be.

This is the first time I have removed the rear bumper and all looks spot on. Will give the wing areas some thought, cheers.
 

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