Front Sachs

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Got a pair of front Sachs I bought ages ago. Not sure if they need a refurb or not but would probably say so.

Just been sat in my garage.

£275 posted.

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Yeah nice quick sale there.

I've always thought your almost better buying a cheaper set knowing they need a refurb than an expensive set that are hiding needing one. Plus you don't have to stress about them getting posted to you.
 

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Yeah nice quick sale there.

I've always thought your almost better buying a cheaper set knowing they need a refurb than an expensive set that are hiding needing one. Plus you don't have to stress about them getting posted to you.
Indeed. Having sadly missed out on the group buy of the remaining new sets a while back, I thought it prudent to have a spare set 'in stock' as it were, to have refurbed at my leisure and thus always have Sachs on the car rather than the rigmarole of having to put Cup shocks on and off when it comes to refurb time. ??
 
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Indeed. Having sadly missed out on the group buy of the remaining new sets a while back, I thought it prudent to have a spare set 'in stock' as it were, to have refurbed at my leisure and thus always have Sachs on the car rather than the rigmarole of having to put Cup shocks on and off when it comes to refurb time. ??

Ideal if you also have a spare set of springs and spring hats / top mounts. A breeze with just the strut top cap under the bonnet and the 2 bolts to the hub, providing the top cap isn't too tight!
 

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Ideal if you also have a spare set of springs and spring hats / top mounts. A breeze with just the strut top cap under the bonnet and the 2 bolts to the hub, providing the top cap isn't too tight!
I have do a spare set of original springs, so cheers for the idea of building up the whole unit to simply bolt on and off, I hadn't actually thought that far ahead, but it certainly makes sense! ?
 
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comment faire pour tester les amortisseurs fronts sachs afin de savoir s'ils sont toujours en bon état ou non?
 
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If they look like the ones above, they will need a refurb. No real hard and fast rules and short of them being put on a test jig there is no well to tell how healthy they are. Generally if you can push down the front corner of the car they have failed, it should be absolutely solid. The same can be said of any that are not fitted to a car. The only tell tale sign that they are probably on their way out will be the appearance of oil and sometimes the remote reservoir will have risen and be touching or very close to the ”arm” that attaches it the the main body of the damper and it may actually wiggle around.
 
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I forgot to quote Dibois Yannick in then above post, he basically asked if it was possible to check the condition of the front dampers at any time.
 
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they don't look like the ones above, they looks like in good stat without rust.....
there is no oil leak but on the right side, when i apply pressure on wing an release, the clio bounce
it was detected during a technical control since few days......
is it possible of a lower gaz pressure only?
if yes is it possible to increase easily this pressure?
 
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When I said “like the ones above” I meant that the fact the the rods were retracted into the body meant that they needed a refurb, in good order they are always extended.
If you are able to easily bounce a front corner, the damper has failed in some way. Rik would be a better person to answer this but my guess is that the gas pressure has gone, as you say. Does the reservoir touch the horizontal part? There was a discussion a while back as to whether we can re pressurise but if it has lost pressure then a seal has probably failed and it will just lose the gas again.
 
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ok i understand that the rods have to be always extended to be ok .
i have to check the position of the reservoir but during the technical control done few days ago i didn't see any anormal position.
what is the horizontal parts you mean?
 
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ok, thanks for the picture.
if the reservoir touch this part, the reservoir can moving by hand if i shake it?
if not, what is the reason why the reservoir can touch the horizontal part?
 
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I’m not totally confident offering advice on this as I’m not the expert, but yes I could move the reservoir ever so slightly by hand on the failed one. There was no sign of any oil leak and had lost pressure, in the end the whole shaft was replaced despite looking perfect
 
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ok and on the second one"damper ok" the resevoir don't move?
is there someone have the technical plan about this dampers in order to understand more easily the functioning of it?
 
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The second good damper was fine with no movement but I wouldn’t get too hung up on that as I have another pair that have both failed and neither remote on those moves.
As to the technical specs, I doubt any of the specialists will release that information.
 
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