Frayz’s Inferno orange 182 - Back in the old flame

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Been a while since I've driven on track, (had a few cancelled trackdays due to C-19) but managed to get the Clio out at Snetterton on Tuesday.
There was a decent assortment of metal there inc many track/race cars, stripped out Minis, Clios, BMWs etc. The little Clio held its own very well and was quicker or a match every other car of its type it encountered. Matched gear for gear stripped out versions too so was plenty happy enough with that.
Not bad for a full weight car, fully sound deadened with full audio and a sub on board.

Forecast was dire and at times we experienced all four seasons in one lap, haha. However i got in a good few dry laps as well as slithering about on R888s in the rain when the heavens did open lol. The car performed faultlessly all day and my only casualty was a dead wiper blade rubber that decided it didnt want to play anymore. Brake ducts seemed to be working well too but i do think im at the limits of the RS29s on track, so may look at further pad/brake upgrade in future.

All in, a good laugh, kept it on the black bit and shiny side up. :)

No video as i couldn't be arsed to use the GoPro but got the usual pics etc.


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Oil service on the daily today with the addition of fitting the @stahlbus dry-break oil valve.
This little chap replaced the sump plug and allows me to clip in an oil drain tube to perform an oil service. Upon making the connection it instantly drains the system. Upon removal the dry break valve closes and leaves zero mess or clean up. No need to undo a drain plug again.
I did however have to cut a small relief from my PMS sump guard to allow the valve to be fitted without fouling but still provide adequate protection. It’s pear shaped to still allow the motor to roll under load whilst removing as little material from the guard as possible.

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That’s a great modification and a really professional install.

Where did you find out about it?

These valves ought to be fitted as standard.

Nice work!
 
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Absolutely massive thank you to Alex and the team at @awmotorworks for the amazing service and turnaround on my gearbox this week.

Alex pulled out the stops to get WZD back to full health as swiftly as possible. I had a feeling the transmission wasn’t quite happy lately but wasn’t 100% sure, as whatever it was wasn’t significant enough to pinpoint.

Then after my Snetterton track day, I started to hear what I thought was a bearing noise. This then progressed recently in to what I thought was a diff bearing dying and I decide to park it till Alex could look at it.

The box in the car was a “professionally refreshed” JC5-129 with a Quaife diff that went in 25k miles ago. I bought it from a lad building a race car and was forced to break it before completion. At the time I saw it as the most cost effective way to fit a refreshed box and Quaife diff. I even called the transmission shop to confirm what had been done to it.
It was new/unused when I bought it 25k ago, I have performed 4 gearbox oil changes in that time too. So rather unimpressed it failed.

Alex then stripped the noisy 129 box and my original JC5-130 gearbox which had done 115k miles.

I’m an automotive development engineer so have always driven with a high degree of mechanical sympathy so was surprised the 129 box bearings had failed. Yet was equally pleased to see my original 115k miles old 130 box (which has lived 90% of its life in my ownership) was actually in very fine health all things considered. The oil was still gold and uncontaminated.

The decision was made to fully overhaul the original 130 gearbox with all new bearings, seals and synchros and rob anything from the 129 box that maybe found to be in better condition.
The Quaife diff was stripped, cleaned and deemed perfect to refit. Unbeknown to me, Alex had all the hardware and brightwork re zinc plated and refinished better than new.

Details like this really show how much Alex cares about the quality of the work that goes out of AWM.

With the box getting swapped I decided it was a fine time to remove the standard flywheel and replace with a billet steel lightweight item from TTV.

The clutch was new late 2019 so that was checked and refitted as it is still in perfect condition. The last item on the gearbox was to refit the PMS linkage with a fresh pivot bush and add the OEM dust boots. These were packed with grease to further cut NVH on the shifter.

Always one to go that step further, Alex always goes over my car fully, no matter what it’s in for. One item to note was the auxiliary drive belt. This was done also late 2019 but has now covered 26k miles and showing signs of wear. As we were getting near the 30k interval, I asked Alex to change that too while he was there.

Alex also found one of my headlamp adjusters had broken so replaced that for me too. My car wears a PMS alloy sump guard which comes with spacers bonded on to provide clearance for the transmission. These are only bonded with adhesive and all but one have come away, so new spacers were turned up and TIG welded into position. Having these fixed properly makes refitting of the guard much easier.

Finally the front tyres were low so these were replaced with another fresh pair R888Rs.

All the above work was carried our over the course of a week and without any fuss whatsoever. As always Alex would keep me updated as to what progress was made and any delays due to parts deliveries.

Pleased to report my drive home was a pleasure. There is ZERO transmission noise now as you would expect but also absolutely ZERO noise from the PMS shifter. This is the first time it has been silent at all speeds and RPMs. The shifter and gearbox is the best it’s ever felt. Slick, precise and the gear changes are absolutely pin sharp.
Theres now not a hint of slop in any of the shift mechanism or drivetrain now it’s like a different car and the flywheel makes a nice change. Not exactly night and day, but suitably noticeable.

So a huge thank you to Alex and his team at AW Motorworks. If you need anything doing on your Renaultsport, give him a shout. Excellent service as always and cannot recommend enough.

AW Motorworks - 07936 934406

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AW Motorworks - 07936 934406
 
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So I’ve had an idea for a long time about using the barge board on the side of the rad shroud to make a cold air feed. So with the help of @04-182 he made my idea a reality. I’ve had this for a while but hadn’t had a chance to fit it.
I’ll drop a thermocouple into the inlet tract and see what the ACTs are with and without the feed connected. Not expecting any noticeable difference but it can only help keep the intake air as fresh as possible and totally discreet doing so.

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Loving the updates, and attention to detail.. Top man....

Many thanks Dave.
Just been out to try some “very” basic testing.

Dead simple, put a k type thermocouple into the inlet tract of the ITG and had it wired to a multimeter in the car.
Ambient on the car dash was showing 16c and the multimeter was flickering between 15/16c so that was bang on.
Driving the car from cold no air feed the inlet temps rose to 18c when moving at a pretty steady 30-60mph through a section of local lanes. (Pretty good)
Stopped and the inlet temp quickly rose to 31c and I moved off again. Same drive saw the ACT drop to 22c and no lower. It took a good 5 minutes of driving to see this temp come down. 22c is still very good but it showed once there was heat in the bay, it never really got back closer to ambient.

Stopped the car and allowed the temps to climb again, this time to 35c but now connected the cold air feed. Moving off saw the temps get back to a pretty decent 18c. However this happened within only a few minutes of driving.

This is as basic as it gets and I’d like to do a much better test on a fast A road to see what happens on a fast cruise.


TL;DR
In reality i doubt it would make a blind but of difference on a dyno. However it did show that having a feed, does help get the air temps back down quicker than without one.

Pre test

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Without feed from cold
18c cruise, 31c stationary (2 min), 22c move off.

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ith feed 35c stationary (2min), 19c move off.

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Nothing much, however I collected some small bits from the dealers in the way of some blanks for the bottom of the tailgate to finish the holes.

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Loving your work frayz. I don't suppose you have or can recall a part number for these blanks to fit the rear tailgate? That or the OEM plastic 'stoppers', as mine have all but disappeared...
 
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Loving your work frayz. I don't suppose you have or can recall a part number for these blanks to fit the rear tailgate? That or the OEM plastic 'stoppers', as mine have all but disappeared...
Really sorry mate I don’t. I’ll have a look through my paperwork and see if they’re on one of my receipts for you.
 
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So following up with @04-182 about this, I wanted to be able to attach the feed to the ITG but not sealed as I didn’t want to provide a restriction.
I wanted the intake to be able to breathe from both the feed and inner wing.
A bit of head scratching and drawings too and from and @04-182 has nailed it again. Thanks so much.

Only test fitted this evening but for a first print, it fits perfectly.

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Latest on WZD.

TL;DR - Won in induction kit, thanks to JMRS, nice kit, tried it, preferred my existing setup and swapped back lol.

Recently very lucky to win a photo competition on the JMRS Facebook page, and many many thanks to the owners for offering such a cool prize in the form of one of their induction kits. I've always been intrigued to try an open cone style setup as opposed to the ITG Maxogen I've always run. However never really fancied dropping the cash on one, so here was my chance to try and see without the cost of buying it.

The kit arrived and with all the JMRS stuff, they chuck you in some stickers and trinkets etc. Nice touch i think. The kit is really nice quality using a well made silicone one piece hose coupled to a dry foam filter from RamAir.
Maxogen removed, it fits up in minutes and although has no supporting brackets, its light enough that it stays in place well.

Warmed the car up and took it for a drive, it was very quickly noticeable how much louder the open cone is than the Maxogen, in comparison, it sounded like I'd fitted ITBs to the car! Cool as that was, I'm not 17 anymore and for me its a bit too much. As my car is my daily driver (Instagram @its_just_a_daily) I've spent a lot of time making it as well rounded as i can, and for me, the Maxogen is a much smoother and refined sound that's less aggressive and more engineered.

So with that, i serviced the ITG filter, clean, new oil etc and added some reflective thermal aramid sheet to the underside of the airbox. The product I've used is a sample i acquired that has a 2mm thermal foam so provides an airgap between the foil and item its shielding. This I'm told is much more effective at insulating and keeping heat away.

We shall see, it all helps. :)

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SharkyUK

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When you win the lottery and decide you don't want the prize... give me a shout mate! :LOL:
 
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Not much going on with WZD over the winter. Wife gave birth to our little boy in January so had plenty to be occupied with.
Clio got hit (parked at petrol pump & revered into) the day before Christmas Eve which means the front bumper has a healthy scuff in it that I need to sort too.
Yesterday I carried out my yearly clean/check over of my dampers. My custom set of AST5100s have been on the car for 2 years and completed 23,000 road/track miles in all weathers and conditions.

They do 250 miles a week as my car is my daily driver. They were liberally coated in ACF50 and covered in Motamec damper covers from new.

Cleaned and ACF50 reapplied, they look as mint as the day they were fitted.

Just shows how nice they stay if you look after your investment. 🙂

In other news I’ve been collecting parts for a substantial brake overhaul soon so that should be nice. 🙂

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