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did anyone have to file the washer gaps down in order to fit around the washers currently in the bumper? Looks like spacings of mine don't quite line up..
 
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Can't remember exactly what I did as it was ages ago, but im pretty sure I just made all new holes by holding the splitter upto the bottom of the bumper and drilling through both. I think only 1 or 2 of the original holes lined up, so took out the screws from the original splitter so it fitted more flush.

Helps if you have someone to hold it in place whilst you drill though.
 
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Thanks Matt, I have worked out where I'm going to drill the holes - shall be predrilling them on the splitter itself before I drill through into the bumper - I have already checked that they won't use any existing holes. My problem is that there are some pop rivets already in the bumper which I think may secure either the under tray to the bumper. When I offered the splitter up to the car last night, it looked as if, although there are cutouts in it to fit around the washers on the pop rivets, it looks as if they don't quite line up, so the splitter would sit on top of them in some places which won't look good at all... Thus I'm thinking that I may have to file the cutouts to make them larger - not sure if this is possible with the CF or not?!
 
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Filing carbon fibre is fine - or even dremeling with a medium disc if you want a curved profile.

You are right in wanting it to clear the rivet heads and sit completely flush to the bumper.

Not done one but just have experience with carbon fibre front splitters and rear diffuser on the Aston DBS.
 
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Oh great, thanks!

I take it I won't need to treat any areas that I file then..

Before I noticed that the rivets were rivets and not screws, I was going to unscrew them and seat the washers over the splitter to add to the retention force. Unfortunately when the bumper was reprayed recently, the bodyshop fitted rivets instead of screws.. Not the end of the world though I guess.
 
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The laminated layers of fibre matting are cured in resin and can have an additional resin outer layer or sometimes clear laquered or left in a matt finish. Trimming or drilling is quite often a secondary operation once the part comes off the former or out of the mould anyway.

Is it viable to drill out the rivets and revert to your original plan ?. Either way making new fitting holes will be fine if the new splitter is of constant thickness, if it is thickened in local areas ie, where the screws (now rivets) are then it would be best to fix there for additional stiffness.
 
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The splitter's of a constant thickness so I think it will be easier (for now) to simply enlarge the gaps where required in order to seat it properly.

Feeling considerably more confident about this than I did last night now! Thanks for your comments!! :D
 

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be very careful drilling the splitter - CF splinters very easily.

And no re filing anything etc - i had a mate hold where i wanted it to go, measured the spacings and drilled them.
 
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Thanks guys. All sorted last night. I roughly worked out where to put in the screws in order to space them all equally, offered it up to the car and made sure that I could place the screws where I'd planned. Drilled the holes, marked the centre of the bumper and matched it to the centre of the splitter then drilled the centre hole through into the bumper and put in the screw, working outwards from there. Got my dad doing the drilling whilst I did the positioning. Very pleased with the results!

Interestingly, I found I didn't need to file it after all - it sits over the washers without any problem as far as I can see, even in spite of the fact that they didn't always quite line up with the cut outs - will have another look when I get in this evening to make sure..
 
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