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I've always used Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-40 in the engine and Millers TRX 75W-80 in the gearbox. I first changed the box oil at around 50k and it wasn't too bad, I emptied the oil again recently (72k) and it was like new. I'd definitely change it if it hasn't been done before. You need 5.1L...

If your engine mounts are worn it's common to experience a knocking sound under acceleration and again when you let off the pedal, the engine moves enough to cause the exhaust to hit the subframe. If it's definitely coming from the front wheel/suspension area then it could be a number of...

Anti-Roll Bar back from the powder coaters, power-flex bushes fitted this time round. The only bushes that are still left OEM are fitted to the steering rack and wishbones. I'm going to change them over to power-flex when I start stripping the front end again in order to fit the new clutch...

Price amended Howard.

Wow! Definitely worth it, good effort.

I've had engine oil come out looking less black!

Thanks Gordon, yes I'm rather pleased with it. I can't say I've noticed a huge difference with the rear ARB. To be honest I've not driven the old girl that much since fitting it so I can't really comment. Once I've got the car back on the road I'll be in a better position to see what it's like.

I went to the dealers earlier and on the parts diagram it displayed the complete assembly for the rear dampers (including nuts etc) but none of it could be purchased separately. Not really a problem except that the Sachs are an M9 x 1.00 which are like hens teeth. I was curious if the 182 cup...

@Big Dave Part number for the beam axle mounting bracket fixings. 7703015200 - Bolt (£7.10) 7703034247 - Nut (£1.57)

I think I'm right in saying that the 182 cup dampers come with the top mount nuts. The Sachs don't come with these and I'm wondering if anyone has bought a set and can confirm that the thread size is M9 x 1.0, same as the Sachs? I need 2 nuts but I'm struggling to find some.

Haha, the hardest part from the whole thing was entering the shed in the mornings and having to deal with the massacre from the night before. Tools and stuff everywhere! At least the car looks good.

Finished! In total it's cost around £650 Here's some before and after pictures...

Hopefully so. I've got a chain block rigged up above the engine bay that I can use to either lower it or lift it. I'll probably just remove the subframe and lower it, I'm not bothered about doing it the quickest or minimalist way, I'd rather remove more things that are in the way and make the...

So basically, option 2 would prevent having to drain the power steering fluid but would make the job a bit more difficult? I've changed the rack bushes before and it was a bit of a pain. Probably not that difficult now with a car lift though. Ive got to change the clutch next so it's...

That reminds me... The rear beam bush was a right pain to remove, it was stuck solid. I ended up searching CS for tips and was informed to drill out the old rubber, cut through the outer steel ring with a hacksaw and then bend the steel ring inwards with a hammer and screwdriver. It took me an...

Good advice. That's what I did, I pre soaked the bolts the night before and used a ratchet and socket, 5 of the nuts came off fairly easily, although they were quite tight, only 1 got stuck. Luckily it had been wound down a few threads before it got stuck, it left just enough room to cut it off...

Hubs and stub axle painted. New bolts fitted. New discs.. Sent the front ARB off for powder coating, along with these subframe support bracket things that I don't know the name of? Also sent the rear beam mounting bracket.

They're captive in the body by the means of a metal clip which fits around the head of the bolt. As you can see from the pictures the head is round so you can't really use anything to hold it, once the clip fails to hold it it's game over. They're easy enough to get to, they're just located...

I'll definitely get that done. It would be typical if it failed its next MOT on something like a worn ARB or bush after everything I've done recently. So far it's never failed an MOT and I've had 3 advisories.. - Brake pad wearing thin. - Noisy exhaust. (Yozzasport) - No rear seats fitted at...

Hope so J, I can't wait to drive it now.

I might still be on with it by winter at this rate Dave. Hope your rebuild is going well? I guess I'm one step ahead as I've already done the front, although I have to return to it to fit new driveshafts. I'm thinking I might have the front ARB and subframe powder coated. It's not really...

Overall it's not looking too bad underneath... The only thing that's concerning me are these 2 patches of surface rust on the bodywork underneath... Does anyone have any ideas on the best way to deal with these?

Stub axle. Rear hubs. Once I've got these bits painted I can start putting it all back together with some nice and shiny new bits...

For 4 months my Trophy's been sat on the ramp looking sorry for itself. A bit of light maintenance has ended up being a full overhaul of the suspension and brake system. Thankfully, I'm not too far away from being finished now, I've just got the rear to do. This is what it looked like before...

Sorted now Dave.

@Crook #73, no problem. I've already removed you're details from the post.

Does anyone want to buy my Land Rover Defender...?

£30 added onto the £147 which is refunded if I hand an old one back. I should point out that I ordered them from K-Tec after Renault told me that they no longer supplied them. I knew the ones from K-Tec were refurbished shafts but I didn't realise they had separate part numbers, should have...

What a kind offer. I think I'll just hang on to them for now :wink: The guy at Renault said it would be £290 (each) for new ones! The refurbished shafts were £147 each. Hopefully they will be available for a while longer.