Although, Hoolio did state that the Twingo versions he ordered a while back arrived with the scraper seal and plastic boot.
Without dyno testing the original Trophy Sachs dampers against the Twingo Sachs dampers we have no idea if they’re are different internally. The obvious difference is the...
I’m slightly confused, there are 2 dampers to choose from, both with 60mm spacing, one says for Clio 2 RS and one says for Twingo 2 RS, I’m confused about what the difference is between the two? Also, it seems that those that have ordered some have ordered the Twingo version which has the...
Nice video and good explanation.
Good idea using the feeler gauge to compensate for the spring-back on the inlet cam. I think this is where the majority of people (including some 'specialists') go wrong. If you put the horse-shoe in position and proceed to lock the camshafts, there's a good...
They’re not mate, I bought them a while back, Rik posted up the info about them in his damper thread.
They're called ‘BS009K Powerflex Universal Bump Stop and Cover Kit’. I bought mine from ebay.
The black top covers in question probably don’t offer much protection from the elements anyways...
These powerflex universal damper covers fit over where the top cap would be and seal it effectively. I would think that you could get away without the top cap with these.
The Twingo dampers hoolio has posted are identical to the Trophy dampers.
You could effectively mount them on the opposite way around and have the reservoir front facing, however, the lug that supports the ABS wire would be on the wrong side.
I typed most of that out. Copied and pasted some part numbers from various e-mail receipts.
I’m helpful like that. Also, I’m at home ill and have nothing better to do.
List of general part numbers here....
http://www.cliotrophy.co.uk/threads/clio-trophy-part-numbers.53897/
List of torque settings here....
http://www.cliotrophy.co.uk/threads/clio-trophy-torque-values.53263/
List of OEM part numbers which were used throughout the build...
Shock Absorber Bolt (x4) (Lower) 7703002835
Shock Absorber Nut (x4) (Lower) 7703034265
Clutch Kit 7701476557
Clutch Cable 8200699727
Gear selector Bush 7700872205
Gear Selector Bush Circlip 8200328305
Gearbox End Cover 7700111166...
Dampers arrived from Rik, rebuilt with DLC shafts and fitted with Mark Fish Springs and PMS Solid Top Mounts.
I stripped the suspension, driveshafts and subframe and set about ordering a load of new parts and sending some bits off for powder-coating.
Fitted a new clutch and cable...
Removed the rear arches at this point and cleaned the rear. Once the rear beam was built on the workbench it was offered up to the rear of the car and fastened in place with Powerflex Rear Beam Bushes.
After Pics...
#266 Suspension/Transmission Rebuild 2017/2018
Last year in March, I decided to refresh things a little by having the Dampers refurbished, they were well overdue and after seeing some of Rik’s work I couldn’t resist having them done. I put the car on the lift and set about stripping it down. I...
I did it over 2 days. I was in no rush, just plodded on with it.
The people who make mistakes are the ones who go into it without preparing themselves beforehand and think they can do it without all the proper tools or by not following the correct procedure.
There are 2 procedures in the...
Paul,
I changed the belts on mine around 18 months ago. I did a lot of research before making the decision to do it myself, there’s a lot of horror stories surrounding DIY cam belt changes on the F4R which put me off at first. Once you understand the procedure and what it is you’re trying to...
My old Scorpion system cracked in exactly the same place. I had the centre section replaced under warranty without any fuss but I sold it not long afterwards. The tailpipes would move once hot and melt the rear exhaust cutouts. Perhaps the flexi joint will prevent that from occurring.
It’s one...
If there’s a user which constantly produces spam I can report it and assign the task for admin to deal with. I think the recent problem causer has been dealt with now. All good.
I wasn’t reaching out for any volunteers. Appart from the odd influx of spam there’s not a great deal to moderate. I just wanted to let you all know that the spam is being dealt with ASAP. Of course if anyone feels like they would like to do it then by all means let me or Nick know and I’m sure...
Some of you may have noticed that we’re getting a lot of spam again lately. I’ve deleted a considerable amount of posts the last week or 2 but unfortunately I no longer have access rights to ban users, I can only keep deleting the spam as it appears. At the minute there’s a particular user which...
I’m not entirely sure.
I don’t think a fault will be triggered if knocking (or excess knocking) is detected. The sensor is there to monitor it and the feedback is used by the ECU to rectify it. I think the fault occurs when there is no feedback from the sensor which would indicate a failed...
If the sensor has failed then the engine will still run ok, however, if there’s any knocking it can’t be rectified. The sensor is there to detect the knocking, the feedback I believe is linked to the ECU which alters the ignition timing in response.
There is only 1 ‘knock’ sensor. I’m almost certain it’s the sensor fitted into the engine block that’s located just above the oil filter. It has a plug connected to it with a red and white wire. Check the plug is secure first of all and that the connections are clean, check the wiring as best...