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Both the upper and lower section of the rubber mounts sit above the circlip which basically prevents the shaft doing what its done in the first image.

Hard to tell from the pic but there should be a small circlip on the shaft, it looks like it’s missing on that damper, you can see the groove where it’s supposed to be.

Mine are sat on the shelf. I’m wondering if cycling them occasionally would be beneficial to the seals so that they stay lubricated? I’d have to de-pin them as they’re quite stiff.

The grub screw is secured with loctite. If you try to remove it without heating/melting the loctite you may end up rounding off the grub-screw and you’ll have to drill it out and fit a larger one. Heat the adjuster with a heat gun or hairdryer to soften it before trying to unscrew it.

I don’t see any harm in driving it for a few days.

Link to part... https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/steering-suspension/renault-clio-172-182-anti-roll-bar-bush-outer-bracket/ Bush.... https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/steering-suspension/renault-clio-172-182-anti-roll-bar-bush-outer/ FYI, the inner clamps are similar but...

Correct. That is an outer Anti Roll Bar clamp.

Very nice

My springs looked like this at around 70,000 miles... The paint was rather crusty around the area where they snapped but they weren't excessively rusty. I wouldn’t like to suggest on how their life could have been extended. bearne1, if I was in your situation with the original springs in...

Do not lose or throw away the nut which secures the bush. The damper rod thread is an unusual size and the nuts are not particularly easy or cheap to source. I think they’re M9 with a 1mm pitch.

Hughie. The jacking/supporting area you have suggested would be ideal. It’s very strong and allows full access to every component at the front of the vehicle. Off the top of my head, I think the access is quite restricted in order to get a jack in there? However, as you have suggested it would...

I really like the design of the BTM exhaust, I have the earlier Yozzasport design supplied by BTM and it’s been fault free for well over 8 years now. Before that I had a Scoprion RS192 fitted and the welds on the Centre section failed rather quickly, fortunately it was replaced under warranty...

And a good run out..

I wouldn’t expect to see any issues as long as the battery is still ok. Mine spent 1 year on the ramp whilst I carried out some extensive work on the suspension and drivetrain. It started again on the first turn of the key. After 2 years it would benefit from some fresh petrol and an oil change.

Count me in, thank you.

I agree. It’s the best option. if the sills are damaged this does create a problem, however, I think the points circled in these images could be used to support the weight of the rear of the car once jacked from the centre of the axle beam.... (not the exhaust pipe, obviously, the beam beneath)

Thanks both. I’ve done a considerable amount of work over the years of ownership and used a range of jacking techniques to carry out a whole range or tasks, the jacking points mentioned have proven to be very secure, safe and reliable. The official jacking points at the sill offer total...

As already stated, I use the following points for jacking the front of the vehicle... The green area is my first option as I prefer to lift nearer to the front as possible, however, if I need more access I will use the blue points, it just depends what I’m doing. I’ll use the yellow points if I...

I’m pretty certain that the standard nut and bolt is 14mm. I’ve got some spare which I will measure tomorrow if you like? The standard nut and bolt require a 21mm socket to fasten. I also think the thread pitch is quite fine for a bolt of that size, and they’re strengthened.

I listed a number of parts used and part numbers in this thread a while back.... https://cliotrophy.co.uk/threads/266-suspension-transmission-rebuild.54378/ Post #13 contains the part numbers.

By replacing the dephaser and pump you’re looking at adding around £200 worth of parts, this includes dephaser, water pumpcoolant. As you have to drain and replace the cooling system you’re adding additional labour cost too. There shouldn’t really be any additional labour costs with installing a...

I think based on the amount of miles you’re doing then extending the interval to 10 years for the dephaser and water pump would be a safe gamble. I personally have had no experience of failures of these parts, however, I’ve always changed them at 5 year intervals as a precaution based on...

This year should see most of us having the major 5 year service done. I personally wouldn’t do anything short of replacing the following parts... Cam Belt Kit. Dephaser pulley. Water pump. Auxiliary belt kit. Crank pulley bolt. Cam seals kit. Cylinder head end plugs.

I’m happy to share any information you require about Trophy #266, if it helps. I haven’t posted any information about #266 in the forums register, some of the information and history about it has been shared within posts and threads on the forum and it’s likely that some day it will be lost. I...

Good man! I can see tubing on those.

The inner Anti-Roll-Bar bushes are a pain to change and are well worth replacing whilst off the car. When I changed the clutch, I removed the subframe with the wishbones and ARB still attached, I stripped the assembly down from there and replaced all the bushes. The inner ARB bushes are not easy...

I agree. Black would be my preferred choice.

Fronts: Mark - x 2 Paul Morris MarcB Patrick Bateman JJ55 CS1969 Cue Hughie Ipatters Samual Floyd IRK evilandy MC1 Mariner 55 Kelvin123820003 - x 2 Wiggy BenG Marc N Smith Gazza Olliep Michael D Fish 2 Highfield Richard Jimcredible Rears: Paul Morris Hoolio MarcB evilandy Cue CS 1969 BenG

Personally, if I was only removing a single rear wheel, I would jack it from the sill and place the axle stand at one of points I’ve circled in the attached picture. You want to place it as far out as possible so that it’s balanced. Another option would be to jack it from the rear axle beam and...