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Or go for set of 182 16" wheels.. cheap and 16" winter tyres are ok and not too expensive ..

I'm sure they know what they are doing .. But i would be happier if someone had seen a dyno sheet to be shown that they had been graphed and matched..

If they dyno the pinned ones and they are off spec how does dyno ing them over and over help if they can't adjust them.?

I would say if a customer owns the dampers and pays for them to be dyno tested by someone then they should be able to see the graphs... My point is not that I am asking to see one.. But is , are they being done..?

Well has anyone been shown a sheet then??

Has anyone actually had a dyno sheet from them??

Bargain I would have thought ....

Well a new set is £200 on eBay..

Yes self sealing tape is the way to go...

Dampers on eBay at £300...

I think it wise to take them of before they get any worse.. It look so I'm,e to ight be the o ring from the canister to the damper leg to me in those pictures.. I do have a pair of cup dampers ready to go if you were over this way .. Could just do a direct swap over.. And get them sorted..

If you are going to drive it year round go for PS3's If you will only use it in the dryer months the Yokohama Neova seem a great choice and look great on the car If you are on a tighter budget the Nakang NS2R track day tyres have a lot of fans... Just use slightly lower pressures as the side...

It's not too difficult... But it is easy to fuck it up ...the grub screw from the factory is loctited in... So it needs heat and care to tease it out without rounding the head off.... Problem comes when you get it off as the spring pulls it into the adjuster slightly and once you clean up and...

I have see pictures of damper adjusters wrapped in self sealing tape to protect the adjuster from crud .. I think MarkR and Sharky do that.... But with stainless detents and ti adjuster body's corrosion will be a distant memory..

It's hard to predict without seeing them, but way away from a full re build type of job.. shouldn't need any parts other than the detents if they are seized.. Dampers off the car tho ..

So after thinking about this overnight .. My thought is that the detent balls and springs might have seized in place .. I've seen this on several pinned dampers that have never been adjusted and on stripping for de pinning its all a mess in there ..

Well if you are worried I can inspect it for you.. I have all the seals and o rings needed for rebuilds.. And a set of cup dampers for you to use while yours get repaired..

You mean tripping on LSD surely ??

I'm assuming you tried to turn it in both directions... It's not that it's vibrated unwound to fully soft and is against the stop ?

They are prone to a bit of corrosion around the base of the adjuster/adjuster shaft interface... Perhaps that's seized it up... But being de pinned by the owner seems strange as you need to remove the red knob to do that ... Or did he have some one like BG do it ?

Are the new units un pinned from the factory now ?? There are a series of 3 small o rings on that shaft that seal the adjuster.. Possible that they have failed but more likely from the place where the adjuster body bolts to the main shaft... Can you take a picture ??

Perhaps I need to start a gearbox rebuild service as well as Damper rebuilds...

In Racing we say " To make a small fortune in motoracing , First you need to start with a Large fortune !! "

I'm not meaning to be offensive buddy .. But they will need some TLC before anyone is bolting them on a car .. Let me know if you are interested ..

For me it will need a rebuild as it looks in pretty bad shape from storage .. I'd be willing to take a punt on it and the broken one as having some usable spares.. £100 the pair..

Sorry I don't see then anywhere near that money as it's going to need a fresh rebuild to be sure it's ok...

What sort of numbers do you have in mind for the damper and what's left of the other one ...

Could you send me a quick picture mate ??

It's got a bent shaft so will need some TLC Mark...

Does it have the pipe from the outlet olive to the rear system...