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I think there was a similar thread to this a few years back, it would be interesting to compare. I think Cue still has his, though I suspect it is now much like Triggers broom. Always enjoyed used as intended. I can’t think of too many others though I sure there must be a fair few out there.

I guess I ought to throw in my hat on this one.

They will fit over the original Stop as it is fairly elastic and will stretch. See the picture below, it is just stretched over the top of one of my new ones as I didn’t want to take it apart. But you get the idea and I did manage it with an old stop I have ( as Ed now in a different “cache”) I...

How much did you think it was going to be? It is a fair old wedge of cash and as Ed mentions, that price is just a quote, it does not include any new parts that might need to be replaced. Having said all that. The cars are close on twenty years old and if the work is good, you are effectively...

That should be Yes, it’s very fiddly though. Was rushing my post as usual.

Yes, it’s very fiddly. Work it through before you refit the headlight and it will become apparent how it’s done as you fit them. Do one at a time and check the level against the other, use a wall, before you tighten fully. That shouldn’t be an issue as the light pivots internally to fit the...

Wont let me add the link to my first post, weird. Nor this one it seems so go to search. Enter Parcel shelf in the search box and Frayz in the member box, hit search and click on the link that comes up.

Here you go, not very OE but if you are clever you should be able to keep it hidden. Get EBay involved, they will almost def come out on your side and PayPal if you used them are another option, you have nothing to lose. The seller is pulling a fast one, f*%€ him over back.

I can’t help with the above but I think it was Frayz who had a fix for a rattly parcel shelf in his main 182 thread. btw, if it not as advertised you should not incur return costs or at least negotiate a discount.

Mmmm found this below. Hopefully just the clip will tighten enough to hold but it may work free unless you can somehow fix or maybe bond the clip in place.

James, really sorry, I suspect I must have deleted them or something, even checked an old laptop.

I have some photos some where, that can dig out. Give me till later.

Thact’s not great, but I’m sure you know that. I have added a diagram below, but it’s not much help. Yes you need a clip and bolt but it looks as though the clip/bolt have broken though the plastic at some point? From memory that should be a hole not a slot?

As Ed said. Yours was an excellent, considered post. Much better than anything I would have been capable of last night :) (or any time actually) I just want people to think I was advocating using that huge piece of yellow polyurethane (?) As such I any of the bellows on the market would work...

James this is why I have suggested in my post that the Powerflex be used used in conjunction with the original bump stop that can be be removed from the gaiter. The yellow poweflex item can just be removed and the remaining bellows used simply as a sleeve. Hope that makes sense, bottle of wine...

Used with the original top “bump stop” and secured over the top of the damper with the cable ties ( I had an idea to use double sided tape around the top of the damper also) I think the shaft should be kept pretty free of dust and any other crap.

That system looks pretty nasty tbh. The PMS would be the system I would want if I didn’t have the Orbisoud. I’m not sure I understand the must have original when it comes to the exhaust, if it was good then fine but it was a heavy piece of shit. Fit and enjoy a system to your liking.

Whoa, pretty though. we are just very very very wet. The village I live in has a chalk stream running through, rare blah blah blah so we are sensitive about the amount of rainfall or more importantly, lack of. Needn’t have worried, February’s rainfall was 19 times more the the same month last year.

Powerflex do this kit.

So it’s worth remembering that the front wheel arch liners came in four parts originally. These above seem original, the copies lack a lot of the small detail and are sometimes one big part.

Erm, would have to dig out invoices but I’m fairly certain it was not too far short of £300 :oops: Kinda old money as well.

These threads are making my decision to buy and salt away one of the original splitters a while back an expensive mistake. Ho hum.

There seems to be a pattern…….. I think I could think of worse customer service but I would have to try very hard. My experiences with AST are fairly well know, in the end I got in touch with the guys in Europe to do some arm twisting. Shame because it’s mostly quite good.

A sort of neither here nor there price for a runner or a keeper, was kinda interested at about £6k.

All true, but a scruffy car is unlikely be as attractive to bidders as it could be. As Ed mentioned, it wouldn’t need much and you can’t state in the blurb that the wheels are correct when they’re lookalike’s.

Very much showing its age and I guess that is okay, it’s very nearly 20 years old. But this is my gripe ( there had to be one didn’t there) If you are putting a car up for sale on a premier(?) auction site, why wouldn’t you get the car looking the best it can be?

Blimey, what kind of fool is this, jeez they are not even mint. No one seems to have mentioned the big old dent. That has just got be impossible to answer. Tomorrow? Three years down the line? To be honest I’m regretting having one of my spare sets serviced a few years ago, probably money wasted.

The name escapes me too. Rota? Some of the Turbo’s have Gotti. Another fun fact. The ph1 and ph2 5GTT both have Speedlines fitted as standard.

Surely Minlite for the mini? But I also want to say BBS? Our little red cars definitely have a big dose of 5GTT dna.

And yes wheels are wrong but reminiscent of the wheels on the 5 Turbo 1 with the split red and silver. Yep and there I go again. Also I guess the Spanish versions would have had different features to the UK.