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Im guessing your claiming this under warranty with the garage you purchased it from? If so check your paperwork, im guessing if its a poor standard warranty and you wont have a leg to stand on as exhaust systems wont be covered. One thing you can do however is get your money back for the car...

Hi to the fellow Trophy owner in Crawley parked outside Virgin Active/Cineworld Cinemas, i believe the reg no. started with RT55. Looked nice and clean unlike mine which needs a good wash.

Good track day car there if the price was rite, i must admit they could have at least tried with the alloys.

Is it just ignition on or is it when vehicle is running as both will act different, when engine is running then the valve will open dependent on pedal distance, on top of that the pedal has a point where it will stop then if you push harder it will pop to the floor, well mine does anyway not...

So far in the year iv owned mine iv had, both outer cv boot clips a coil pack and leads due to arcing and doth damper's one was seal at the bottom of the reservoir and the other on the top of the shaft. Oh and the rear heat shield bodge with washers. I have done a lot of extras mainly service...

Your angle sensor will come up as a fault on diagnostics due to the steering wheel not being straight, just get them to adjust the tracking so the car steers straight on uk roads, do a mile or so and this will clear itself. As for brake pedal sensor not sure on the renault but most are easy to...

As Jonc says you need the solenoid open hence having the car started to bleed may work, i know renault can do this or i know the RSTuner that henk does with the abs module will do that too, so if you have one to hand will help.

That looks a nice bit of kit there Ben, im liking the red cable tubing, one question how are you finding checking the oil level? or has this not been done yet. Hodgy21, as Aucky states it not the increase in power its how its delivered, there was a rather good review of someones on this over...

As stated try bleeding the brakes with engine running, so don't pump on pedal till hard just start car then push down on the pedal and hold it down then get another member to crack the nipple off till pedal goes to the floor then do the nipple up and repeat the procedure, if this fails due to...

Any electrical connectors are worth cleaning when unplugged, i only spray a bit of contact cleaner in them and then fit them back together, as for WD40 its ok for cleaning but no where near as quick as brake cleaner or carb cleaner, i thing carb cleaner is cheaper if your buying in a can but...

If your going to clean the throttle body out then i advise removing it before attempting to clean it, you will not want to fill the intake with brake cleaner or carb cleaner as when you go to start the car it will pile a tone of smoke out the back and brake cleaner ignites faster and hotter...

Ok makes it a little easier, im guessing there is enough fuel in the car and your not going on what the dash says, i would first check that when warm your getting fuel pumping to the injector rail some failures on fuel can be down to fuel pressure regulators not holding pressure, if this is the...

When you sat it fails to start does it still crank over like normal? Also what Clio engine are we talking here?

Crank shaft sensor is located bellow the air box and is on top of the gearbox, its attached by 2 x 10mm headed bolts, the area your looking for is as pictured bellow on the ask the mechanic website, however yours will look similar the other picture supplied, they are both positioned in the same...

Iv just read your new post and to me like i said it doesn't sound like timing issue, and they are correct when the timing is locked in place, many garages tell you they need to remove and fit new pulley bolts as iv been told myself to do, although this is good practice and the pulleys are all...

The one thing that puts me off saying that this is a timing issue is the fact that the lack of power is intermittent. Thats not to say it couldn't be, i certainly wouldn't trust Renault to do work on my car as there all under time limits, were as the places suggested spent time on your vehicle...

Just a thought how long was it since changing oil? what oil was used? you could have dirty or cheep oil thats causing a lag in the dephaser, also another thing to check is spark plugs if they have not been changed do them, there easy to do just make sure you get new gaskets for the inlet...

Basically its to do with the injector rail made of cheep plastic, on top of that the fuel supply lines run across the top of the engine bay and yet again are plastic, these when the weather is hot these expand and create heat that usually wouldn't be in the rail, on start up especially i found...

Whats your power problems? iv only just noticed that you have been posting up, are you running the car in this weather still on vpower if so stop and run it on shell 95 ron, iv had issues with vpower in the heat and fuel evaporation since changing issue has stopped. Anyway post up with issues...

Aucky i thought that when i started drilling a small hole for the front, however if you just plug them up with flat rubber gromets you will never even notice them, i used m6 nut & bolts both sides so the holes are very small and i also popped some foam tape underneath so there was no damage to...

I have fitted both front and rear to mine this being the OMP ones and i have to say everyone goes on about the rear does nothing but after fitting one at a time and trying the car out after i would say the most improvement i had was from the rear brace alone, it seemed to me to make the rear end...

Your be fine with the track rod removal there not too tight there is a trick if you have some good grips and are replacing the lot then get the grips on the joint on the track rod not on the 32mm spanner area and just turn it anti-clockwise usually, that should do it fine. At least your half...

There's a joint under the boot cover with i think a 36mm but its a bit of a pig to get to, you may end up undoing the rack and moving it into an area to get on the join there not that tight normally but then again this is a renault. Its only track rod and track rod ends you will need, you...

Ok so is it the 21 mm nut that stuck or is it the track rod arm thats seized? I had the track rod end seized in the track rod so i go a big pair of stillson's on the arm and gave it a yank, took it completely out cleaned it up then put it back in with some coper slip, never had an issue since...

I hope you have a big pocket if your going for an M3 especially an E46.

Ok well if you ever need any help with a cv joint just ask, there really not that complicated but i have to admit it makes a right mess when fixing one and a tip is to make sure you wear gloves as it will take ages to get your hands clean after :) Anyway back to the topic Red_Beastie let us...

No i mean the splines on the shaft itself and the cj joint has spline in the center if either of these have worn its new drive shaft time. I will try find a picture and explain what i mean.

Tack welding will be fine we have to do this at my workplace when fitting Ferrari 308 upper and lower arm bushes, takes 5 seconds to do. Let us know how you get on once all is done, i know powerflex bushes are rather noisy after a few months especially if your using them for road use and not...

A new cap fixed the issue sounds like you was lucky there then. As for moving the engine with your hands there is no way you can mimic the movement by hand, maybe a big pry bar would do the same kind of movement under heavy load. As for cv joint if you think its just limited to turning...

Yer there is rear axle bushes, there rather big and rarely go unless with age they perish and split, Pure Motorsport do a nice conversion kit to bearings but not sure how it would hold up on road use its more for track use. As for track rod ends i would save the money there £30 each side from...