Oliie, I finally got round to following up my wheel contact. They are OZ Superleggera in silver and in excellent condition. They are 7 x 16, but at 37 mm ET a bit off the standard ET 45. This has the effect of widening the track by 8 mm each side and may affect the steering geometry (changes the...
As far as I can gather the inlet cam is retarded until about 1,500 rpm and then advances fully (this helps stabilise the idle and town crawling with cam profiles which although modest are too extreme for a MAF system) - according ot Ben R of AWT, it also is retarded at 6,800 for reasons which...
I am sure, but this is a very slow tight track (even for go-carts) and need some speed or the times are useless - straights very short! Agree that there is a compromise and did one good time when taking it gently, but next attempt was far too slow - hence my interest in the feedback from the...
I have the Kumho catalogue - will check at the w/end. Suggest you add a column to show that they are track tyres. For us competitors you may also want to consider a cross reference to the MSA Blue Book, which defines what tyres are list 1A (Production) or 1B (Modified class) - confusingly a lot...
Jezza - certainly there seems to be lots of understeer in slow tight corners, but then it is front wheel drive. Will be interested to hear what you learn from the driving day - need all the help I can get before Dunkeswell on the 12th.
As some of you will already know, I am also caught up in the Kumho debate as they are the only 16" tyre with proper track compounds (the Hankook RS2 has track construction with road compound - treadwear index200 versus 40 - 100). Kumho recommend medium front and soft rear and quite low starting...
Not sure of PCD - am sure the offset is ET 45. Try to benefit from the lighter rims, as per the trophy - it certainly is a plus point. Will keep you posted when I have looked at the rims. Let me know if you buy in the meantime.
Regards
Oliie - I suppose ebay is as good a place as any to look for rims - you need to ensure that you end up with the right PCD, offset and weight.
As for tyres there is a much better choice for 15"rims. The rolling radius of 205/45x16 is only 1% more than 205/50 x 15.
I think that I have...
The bolts are Unbrako socket heads - should be available from any reputable supplier - much more difficult was finding the nuts - we used Speciality Fasteners who are based in Totnes in Devon - they should be able to supply the bolts as well - just make sure that they are 12.9 spec. I also made...
I used plain shank bolts as I had calculated that they would provide the right amount of camber.
I do agree that it is quite soft in roll which is a problem, on the sprint circuit (Dunkeswell - which is bascially a go-kart track, but 7 metres wide, but not so much on the hillclimb - Wiscombe...
I eventaully decided to use different bolts - 12 mm diameter instead of 14, and went for aircraft grade 12.9 bolts with a Spiralock lock nut. For M12 x 1.75 they recommend 180 NM, which provides more than enough clamping load.
So far they have been fine, and I have now done several events. Am...
The point I meant to make about the amount of roll, is that even with 2.00 negative the front wheel was still showing a lot of positive camber - can understand why the Challenge racers go to 3.5 degrees! - even though they appear to run springs at least 5 times as stiff!
Jezza, I am already at 2.00 negative and it understeered ridiculously at Dunkeswell (need to turn in slower - gained 3 seconds by driving as though on a Sunday afternoon drive!) but was fine at Wiscombe. Photos show a lot of roll and rear wheel a long way of the ground. Don't want to go stiffer...
Would be interested to know if the dampers can be un-pinned - will this be what Mark Fish is going to look at? Certainly for sprints and hill climbs some adjustment would be very helpful - it could be stiffer on very twisty (left and right in rapid succession) courses, as I discovered last...
Portland, I believe that the Cup and Trophy have different front hub carriers/hubs from the standard car - do you know what the actual differences are?
Back from two days at Wiscombe. 3 seconds quicker than the MX5 which was on track tyres. It is not a place where one takes too may risks, with walls and trees at the edge of the track. One chap rolled his 205 on top of a large gatepost - he was OK but they had to lift the car up off the post...
Your biggest problem may be that the front bump stops may come into play more and even though they apparently are hydraulic this could upset the handling balance. As Jezza points out you will need to find out the rates of the o.e springs and of whatever you replace them by. The rear could be...
Oliie, thank you for your kind greetings.
At long last my first event is this weekend at Wiscombe - delayed from April to avoid the paddock turning into a quagmire. The Dunkeswell training day was cancelled, presumably because of on-going work for the improvements instigated by Mr Mansell...
Nik, what tyre pressures have you ended up with - presumably you are still on the PE2? My track work will be sprints and hillclimbs, which last a maxium of 75 seconds, so do not have much time to get heat into the tyres.
Had dreadful trouble trying to get it on the map; gave up - promise that it is alive and well near Honiton in SE Devon, just waiting for its first event at Wiscombe in May.
I am assured that the cam timing (overlap) changes much lower down, circa 1,450 to 1,650 rpm - at 5,000 the management system changes from closed to open loop - hence the need to re-map for significant mods.
These look familiar, toe out at the front , castor 2.5 degrees, KPI 12.50 degrees, toe in at rear. Carrossage is camber. Any idea whether the numbers are decimal of a degree or minutes - seem to be the latter.
BTW if anyone is remotely near Winchester, Micheldever tyres are consistently the most competitive and offer brilliant service. It is worth phoning just to get a baseline price 01962-774437. They do not do Hankook though, for which I go to Bridge tyres in Taunton, who are also Yokohama A032 &...
It is hard to explain simply, and is documented in various books. However here goes;
Set the front wheels straight and then wrap a length of string tightly around the outside of all four wheels at wheel centre height. I tie it onto the exhaust pipe or towing eye. I then use 25 mm wooden...
Don't know where the 12' +/- 5' came from - I have a photocopy from my supplying dealer of all the front geometry and it shows toe-out 25' +/- 17'. I would agree that this sjhows a very large tolerance and will double check it at the weekend. In the meantime can any one throw some light on the...
The problem with lowering a car is how close you get to the bump stops - on a saloon road or race, you need bump travel or the handling will be a nightmare - go and stand on a fast corner on a bumpy circuit and watch a badly set-up car bouncing off the bump stops. It is possible to use...