Chris - that is how it should be. The limited droop at the rear increases the roll stiffness! But look how much more camber you need at the front - no wonder you were complaining of u/s. I am sure that you could run 2.30 or 3.00 on the road; might just need to change the toe settings - possibly...
I do recall that the trophy is meant to have a 200 cell cat, in which case there will not be much of a gain by removing it. Probably the best compromise is the Mark Fish mod that has bene posted about elsewhere.
Don't buy new until you are sure that there is a problem.Try bouncing the rear up and down it should be quite hard to push down and then return to normal ride height very slowly. Easiest way to do this is to open the tailgate and push on the opening just above the bumper.
If there is not any...
On a previous car (Turbo 2CV!!)as the silencer was not quite horizontal, I drilled a small hole (2mm) at the lowest point - quite a lot of water used to drain out, but it cured the steam, and reduced the risk of it rotting from the inside out. Sadly we had to sell the car when our daughters...
The Mark Fish mods are just replacements for the o.e parts - not as though they are 'coil over', so you could argue that they are just normal wear and tear replacements; i.e no loading.
North of 30k for a decent Cayman S I would guess.
The trouble with the Golf/S3 four wheel drive system is that it is not a proper 4WD system - the haldex system, however much it is tweaked, is still basically a part time system. To make a 4WD car handle it needs a at least a 60/40 torque bias...
Re: Koni Adjustable rear Shocks
Ben, Koni yellows normally have two turns from soft to hard- anti-clock for soft and clockwise for hard. I would gradually increase the setting until the back just comes up slowly and does not overshoot normal ride height. If they are too stiff the back could...
Re: Koni Adjustable rear Shocks
Ben G - for your information konis have a fixed compression rate and only adjust the rebound. Strange, as it feels as thouhg they adjust in both directions! If you go onto the Koni UK website and look for dealers, you will also find two or three specialists who...
I looked at them a while ago - very tunable (230 bhp plus and lots of torque) and a good KW suspension kit. A better deal financially is the Sri, which powerwise only differs in the mapping! I decided not to pursue becuase the variable assistance power steering is speed dependent, and would have...
Hoolio - you make a very good point, which is that if you gain the extra confidence in the car to be able exploit it to the full, then this is huge plus. We used to spend a lot of time working out the difference between the simulated performance of an F1 car and what the data logging showed was...
I hate to spoil the party, but the deflection of a rubber top mount in Trophy type suspension will translate to less than1/3 degree. A solid top mount will certainly feel more harsh, which could easily be confused with being more precise. Would only do it if running race springs (5 x stiffer...
Re: Koni Adjustable rear Shocks
Quite a lot of the hills have school days - perhaos checking on Harewwod might be an idea. At Prescott and gurston they film your lines and give really good feed back.
Apparently very sensitive to geometry set up - check the forums. To get more mid range torque you should go the Hondata route, which will move the v Tec point down the range. About 1.5 secs quicker than the Trophy at my local hill climb!.
They are very good batteries - lightweight and because they use gel do not need to be upright. They are intended for competition, so whether they have sufficient capacity for cold starts, being left for say two weeks, or running around in town with all the accessories on (heated rear window...
Chris - half moon spacers are certainly a good idea. However having run this solution on my road car for over 80,000 miles with out any drift, I would not see it as an issue.
Having used 'camber correction' bolts in the past I found that they did not work very well and felt the aircraft spec bolt would have far less stress points and from my calculations gave the correct camber change. Also they would provide a higher clamping load than the after market version - one...
BenG - You understanding is correct. Mixture correction also comes from the lambda sensor in the exhaust, as the mixture also affects the exhaust gas analysis (both re emssions and power/economy). You will probably have read about broad band sensors being used, particularly on turbo cars, to...
BenG - I can't argue with facts. I seem to remember that there is a pressure/temperature sensor in the standard elbow between the air box and throttle body, if so does the Maxogen retain this? I had a long chat to the owner of ITG at the Autosport show - they had a stand in the engineering...
So far no one on this forum (or Cliosport iirc from my infrequent visits) has actually done a back to back test on intake systems. The standard one looks quite good and when both inlet pipes to the airbox are working has adequate cross sectional area - what is unknown is when the accoustic valve...
Hoolio - yes as best as I can remember - would have to check my files. You will remember that I ran 10' out, which was as the car was delivered and always seemed fine - I think it was at the lower end of the range quoted by Renault, but definitely always toe-out.
PPTom. Obviously matching cambers are ideal - but you are within a safe tolerance there - I regularly find that they are equal, just that the garage floor on which the measurements were taken is not perfectly level. Sometimes the alignment machines are not properly zeroed - had an interesting...
When sachs reconditioned mine, they said that the standard setting was 22-24.
Don't machine the bolts - you will end up with stress points - it is fine to elongate the top holes in the flanges on the upright. 2mm will give the right amount of camber. Otherwise run standard settings - this is...
Oops. All I was saying, or obviously failing to say, was that one would expect the Trophy to run a small amount of toe-out. If people have very different cambers and wheels, then there might be a case for toe in.
Running zero is OK, but does not compensate for the deflections that occur in all...
Ideally on a FWD car with negative scrub radius (as per the Trophy) you need a small amount of toe-out. Do not be mislead by track orientated people whho run different cambers and offset - often they have much smaller ET, which leads to minimal or even positive scrub radius. I had this debate...
Goodyear F1As look a good bet - if in the right size. I was never impressed by F1 GDS3 in the dry until almost worn out - too much tread squirm I would guess.