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10 or 20 minutes toe-out is minimal, so either it is an optical illusion or the setting is out,, the safest visual test is looking from the rear - does anyone know if the toe has changed from the 172 - in general FWD cars should run parallel to toe-out.

This is all from memory - will not get to my files until, the weekend - also there seem to be more than one lot of official setings: Front Toe-out 20' - Camber negative 30-45' NB; the toe-out on mine as delivered was 10', so I retained that even after changing the camber. Rear toe-in...

I suspect that the standard offset of 45 will work - certainly I tried, albeit briefly, some 15" alloys at 40 mm ET and there was plenty of clearance.

The only specialist I have come across is Carlton Garage in Exmouth - ask for Alex Clarke. He is an enthusiast and competes in a 5Turbo (rear engined). Otherwise there is Tipton Garage at Tipton St John (Steve) near Ottery St Mary , who have a good reputation but may not qualify for warranty...

Cue, My wife would probably agree with you, but I only collate what I can glean elsewhere and then try to sanity check it. I have always tried to understand the hows and whys before committing to any mods. Luckily I can usually find someone who will enlighten me. Back in the old days, cams were...

Steve, One warning re Schrick cams - the only test I have read suggests that they are quite top end biased, but of course that might have been influenced by the rest of the package. Thier nominal timing figures wouild certainly support that conclusion. However that is why I am keen to go the AWT...

You will need at least 220 bhp - if n/a, this will be at 7.500 plus, and so will need a shorter 5th gear - so it would all get very expensive. Settle for a sensible 200 bhp package and enjoy the acceleration and agility of the car, whilst retaining every day drivability. As far as I can gather...

Your problem is that the 197 has gained a lot of weight, which as you quite correctly point out will be difficult to shed in production form. They have also met the general market expectations of more refinement for everyday use and as the car is bigger, have in fact almost changed market...

Bearing in mind that I only really do hill-climbs and so my focus is on short runs, for which the softest tyres and road pads seem ideal, I hope the following may be of some help for trackday use where people do many laps and longevity/resistance to fade is important: Brakes; The Yozzasport...

Because I have only done 2,800 miles in the first 12 months it made sense not to bother to replace the pollen filter - which I gather saves a fair amount of money. Just a thought.

I know this has been covered before; my dealer admits there is a problem, but rather lamely claims not to know of a cure. Now some of you have had it fixed - might I please trouble you for the names of the dealers who did it, or even a Renault UK reference if there is such a thing. Thanks very much.

Donkey pre-empted me; so far we do not even know to what extent the Sachs dampers will degrade; without being condescending I really did feel that everyone was getting wound up over a problem which as yet to arise. I appreciate that forewarned is forearmed, but to use another cliche there are...

If there is a black it should be the negative - the others are for the lighter and the ashtray light - you can do it by elimination or with a light bulb!

Splice it into the feed to the cigarette lighter. That whole assembly lifts out very easily.

Oliie. The other thing about Josh is that he is 100% clued up and absolutely straight. One of the chaps at work (one of our senior design engineers) has a 964 (1990) LHD with a RS body kit and Motech conversion, plus exhaust and suspension. I could get some details if you are interested.

Josh Sadler of Autofarm is probably the oracle.

Fred - I don't but it is now on the list - thanks - Goodridge presumably?

I have probably bored you all to tears with my quest for pads with better initial bite. Anyway Fred's comments about standard pads set me thinking and I began to wonder if the fact that apart from hill climbing, most of the limited mileage that I do in the Clio (2,800 in the year) is around the...

Enjoy it, but beware the bikers!

Fred, Thanks ever so much for that insight - I will obviously have to learn to push harder! At least it is a cheap solution - plus may be the HC discs

OliS, Thanks for this link - I am a total novice on this subject - all I am looking for is the highest coefficient of friction from cold. the RS4-2 looks good, but then so do RS14 and RS15. Can anyone recommend the best supplier. Oddly enough the private equity bank with whom I deal occasionally...

I have probably asked this before, but for hill climbs, where there is not any chance to pre-heat, it is all about initial bite from cold. Fade is not an issue - so recommendations please. BTW can someone please explain why pads such as DS2.11 are described as not suitable for road use, with...

Donkey - am all for it , string and all - biggest problem is that my garage floor isn't level, so have to measure that first then correct the camber readings! Have seen quite a lot of people use garage style laser alignment and still get the thrust angle wrong.

The only method is by using shims - which will work perfectly well for the road - should only be necessary if the car was wrong from the factory, or has minor accident damage. The standard settings are ideal.

The Clio Challenge series use shims as do various race preparation specialists.

What it means is that the inlet cam is retarded until 1,800 rpm, then advances (iirc) by 15 degrees into a 'normal' postion, but then is retarded again at 6,500 rpm. He is also saying that this only will happen if the throttle is not closed - presumably on lift off. The point about the...

Steve, I did a quick sketch last night and could see an argument for negative ackerman in some cases, but it does weird (nasty and illogical) things to the theoretical instantaneous centre of rotation. I do my own set ups, having treated myself to a set of dunlop tracking gauges and a digital...

Steve, thanks for you kind words. Ackermann is one of those multi-dimensional problems to which there does not seem to be any hard and fast answer. The theoretical solution, with simple line projections intersecting along the line of the back ‘axle’, applies in an ideal world...

Just to confuse you all, I actually work as an accountant, but originally qualified as a mechanical engineer and have worked in motor racing for most of my life. As a sideline I used to do some engineering on touring cars, and not being too proud too learn used to lean on my F1 designer friends...

When I did mine there was virtually no scope for adjustment with the original bolts. - other than by slotting the the hub carrier flange holes. Rather than use after market camber bolts, I had calculated that going to an aircraft spec 12mm bolt (standard is 14 mm) for the top of the two bolts...