Hi chaps, wonder if anyone can help with my issue. I've been doing quite some work to my T the last month: Front sachs refurb, fitted Ktec solid top mounts, Poly bushes fitted to lower wishbones and anti roll bar, new track rod ends, lower balljoints, koni adjustable rear dampers, mark fish...
Nice one fella, sounds good. I'm tempted to take mine to Mark once mine's back on the road with the adjustable konis and serviced sachs...new balljoints, track rod ends, solid mounts, poly arb bushes and poly wishbone bushes...crickey i'm skint!
Good stuff re the concrete, but would a few years on would you possibly wish you had spent the extra money? Depends how expensive it is to your income i guess.
I think anything that may draw attention will deter a potential thief. I think spotlights with motion sensors are so valuable. How...
PHEW! At last it's off! Bought a MASSIVE 33mm spanner from Halfords today, used a lever to wedge the steering rack in place, then applied some force and it snapped free. The nut is actually 32mm but there's a plastic disc that stops a normal sized spanner from fitting the nut, so i had to chip...
cheers fella, well a mate came round today and we got one side all off easily. But still can't shift the passenger side. The nut is slack but the end is just stuck fast. We've mullered the 13mm spanner section of the rod trying to force it off, used heat, wd40, big bars on the end of...
Okay mate thanks for that, i'm taking a trip to renault this morning to pick up a previous order so i'll enquire about rods. He wanted me to take the old end in to match it up...a cock up with the system not knowing which end is which part number, so i haven't bought them yet.
lol yeah i did...
aaah they're both seized...i think the end has rusted on to the nut and the bar. I've got a big pair of molegrips on the end with a 2foot bar on the handle, a 30cm long adjustable on the nut, heated the nut with the torch and put as much force as i could muster which resulted in the grips...
I've managed to get the ball joint from the hub despite the thread spinning with the nut, grr! But now i can't shift the rod from the bar. I'm using a 21mm spanner on the rod and 13mm spanner on the bar...i could do with more leverage and will try and think of something. I'm spraying wd40 but in...
well don't take my word for it, have a trawl through old posts to see if someone explains better or has experienced more similar issues to yours, just to be sure.
At least they'll be good for 6 years, the rubber couldn't have been particularly fresh, i know mine weren't after 6 years of use...
oh okay i see, don't worry they're complicated little beggers them! I peeked inside the gaitor once and got scared...filled it with grease and covered it up again! :? In my experience i've only had them clonking when turning, but now i know.
lol, yeah mate they all do it. Have a search on the forum for old posts. Mine does it at slow speeds when turning near to full lock and makes a nice clunk noise for good measure, sometimes repetitive clunking. It doesn't do it under light turning, but when manouvering into car park spaces and...
He was worried about locating them properly, but tbh the bush dictactes where the sleeve fits as it sits against a vertical piece of the wishbone, so once we'd chatted about it he was okay with it. Fingers crossed!
I fitted them on my old fiesta and done quite a lot of miles on the road with...
Well powerflex do an anti-roll bar set which gives you the two ends where they meet the wishbone, and the two centre ones. The two centre ones i've removed the two large supports that run from subframe to floorpan that are like a funny shaped rectangle 12" x 8" ish, to gain better access. Only 4...
rick just a note, you've replaced the top mounts for new standard ones?
If so then surely it's normal? Mine creaks and knocks when manouvering, i think they all do with the standard top mounts. I would imagine fresh rubber would creak more than older bedded in rubber too.
I would guess engine mount. Knocking noise caused from a cv joint happens when turning on the move so the wheel's under lateral load. A knock when pulling away suggests the engine is shifting backwards and causing the manifold to knock on the heat shield.
Someone else may be able to confirm...
Just want to check that this is the correct way round to fit them after i get the old bushes pressed out:
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Nice one, yeah without blasting, zinc coating and finishing the rust will just come back through. Keeping it clean will surfice, but as a daily driver and the fact i won't be taking the liners off often i'll use dinitrol cavity wax to keep the moisture from the metal.
As of yesterday morning...