Ajr

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Hi All.

I'm getting my geometry set up again this weekend, it's not been done since new, and at nearly 50k it's definitely off, what with having to hold my steering wheel a few degrees to the right to go straight!

Soooooo. I'm presuming it's all trophy specific:
Toe?
Caster?
Camber?

Presumably only the toe can be adjusted realistically on the standard setup? My garage are very good, but i want to be sure what it says on their computer is the correct setting, as i bet it only lists FF and cup settings on there.
 

Cue

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think standard is -1 toe in, 1 degree of neg camber - castor can't be altered with our suspension i think.... george's territory this.

i'd recommend going for neutral toe, -1.5 camber (max you can get with the oem camber bolts without further engineering work). Better still, get some aftermarket camber bolts and go to -2.0 camber. corners even better than normal. a search of the site will give you the options and costs.
 
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Standard is front 0.20' toe-out and 0.45' negative, as Cue says 2.00 negative works very well.
rear iirc 0.20' toe-in and 1.45 negative

these are in degrees and minutes - note that ome alignment machines used decimals of a degree.
 

Ajr

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Cheers guys, much appreciated :)

Is the front camber adjustable as standard? just by loosening the strut to hub bolts and adjusting the angle? Or do you need the special camber adjusting cam bolts?
 
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No, otherwise there would be a small chance that it would move around by itself. So yes you need to get camber bolts although George K calculated that a 12mm bolt is exactly the correct diametre to give 2degs of negative camber.
 
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