Replace discs / pads........

[bearne1]

.........this is going to be my first 'hands on' job on the T.

Any idea if this is a relatively straight forward job? Out of interest, does anyone know if the calipers are slide in/out or twist in /out?

Looking for the best setup for fast road use and 'occasional' track use.

Many Thanks

 

[Cue]

callipers just hinge iirc, no need to actually take them off.

 

[scott]

Front caliper / disks :-
You can remove the 'front' of the caliper by holding the 17mm nut next to the rubber boot and undoing the 13mm behind it, top and bottom, then it just pulls off. Note: the 17mm nut has a flange on it so you need a thin 17mm spanner.
Personally i found it easier just to remove the whole caliper via the 19mm bolts top and bottom of the caliper. I found this easier to get in to give caliper a good clean and also to wind back the piston, just make sure you undo the brake fluid tank cap, you dont want to pop any pipes or anything. Once cleaned etc just coppaslip the new pads at the contact points of the caliper and fit into the caliper, i also found putting a small amount on the shims also stops the brakes squeaking. If it wont fit over the disk then you need to wind back the piston a bit more. Then just slip over the disk and refit the 19mm bolts and tighten.
To remove the disk you just undo the two torx counter sunk bolts, pull / tap the disk off. I rubbed the hub down with wire wool and cleaned the whold area whilst everything was off. Then fit the new disk, obviously if your replacing the pads and disks then you need to put the new disk on before you put the caliper back on.

Rear caliper / disks :-
Undo the two smaller bolts on the side of the caliper and pull the 'front' carrier of the caliper off, remove the pads, shim and clips and clean down. To remove the disk you need a 30mm socket, undo the 30mm nut and pull / tap off the disk.
To Wind back the piston using a screwdriver layed flat across the piston and wind it back.
Fit the new disk. Tighten up to 172nm, iirc.
Make sure the slot in the piston is in the correct place for the 'key' on the back of the pad. Put the pads in the carrier and refit, tighten the bolts up, fit the springs to the top of the pads and knock the shim between the carrier and the pads.
I will have a quick look, i found some guides somewhere, i will try to post them.
Here just found this for the rears:-
http://www.cliosport.net/content/guides ... _discs.pdf

 

[PB.283]

I have used 4 different setups on MK2 RS Clios and would rate them in the following order

Pagid Blues, Braided Lines, Brembo Max discs
Ferodo DS2500, Brembo Max discs
Completely standard
Greenstuff Pads and EBC Turbo Groove discs(this setup was stupidly bad, avoid at all costs)

All with good fluid!!

 

[bearne1]

Thanks for the replies - any preference for the rear or go for the OE setup?

Thanks

 

[Ossie87]

Attached a guide for you that someone made with pictures

 

[Cue]

Thanks for the replies - any preference for the rear or go for the OE setup?

Thanks

oem disks and ds2500 pads i'd say.

 

[Jay]

Just fyi, I'm running Brembo HC Discs, Ferrodo DS Performance pads and ktec braided lines. Made a massive difference to stopping capability, but as I don't do track days, I didn't bother with the DS2500. However we did put DS2500 on our Megane 225 which are awesome!