Just been to Mark Fish to investigate a noise i had on the car. Turns out it was worn diff bearings. Cue engine and gearbox out, suspension off exhaust off. rebuild diff and gearbox. new clutch, new belts and pulleys etc. im gonna be brassic this month. any spare change?
Diff bearings gone at 66.5k miles
i wish i was close to Mark Fish, i want his camber/geo set up 
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- #4
I have his geo, 2.5 deg neg on front 2deg neg on rear. It sounded like alternator whine. but it mainly is at 40 mph ish, 2-3k rpm. When you lift off the throttle and engine is on overrun, you get a whirring vibration type sound. you can feel it through the gearstick too. I realised it was this cause mark told me lol. What id really like to know is this: Is there any way to prevent a reoccurrance. I mean all diffs have bearings right? A gripper diff would need alot more maintenance, and a quaife would still have bearings too i guess. Id like stiffer engine mounts and while better, not sure if it would make a difference to this problem. Does anyone have any experience with this?
2.5 on the front sounds like a lot, most people seem to got for 1.5 or 2, got any pics
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- #6
Do you want any pics, or specifically of the geo? I have previously posted my pure motorsport exhaust if you are interested. Probably is a bit too much tbh, but I never get understeer. Rear is prob more ott than the front as rear has to lean a long way before you even start to compress spring
I have no useful advice I'm afraid. This sounds like a bit of a financial nightmare! Are you considering upgrading the diff while everything else is being done? Also did Mark add any rear toe when he added camber to the rear? I have the standard MF springs and revalved Koni's on the rear but feel like it keeps the rear axle a little too stable for my liking.
sounds like you need to tweak how hard your dampers are, i think mine are much better than the standard set up
Mikey they are much better but I think I miss some of the rear end adjustability that was there with just front camber and rear ARB. The Trophy is hopefully going to live on as a weekend car so I'm interested in making the handling a little more extreme.
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- #10
cant recommend AST's enough. I dont have them, but i went out in someone elses. I dont have the mark fish rears, was next in line before i was hit with this bombshell. my understanding is that most people go for his setup as the rear are way too soft and playfull as sttandard. most people want a stiff rear end if they are using it on the track. Rear already has quite a bit of toe. Not getting a diff as I dont need one. besides Im currently spending £2600. A diff would add £1000 to that. I've decided im gonna get the car ship shape, save up the £2600 i'll spend. then sell the car. new dampers will have to be left. Im gonna get an ep3 civic type r and save for an FD2 type r. Only so much money you can justify on these cars.
Thanks for the advice. It is an awful lot of money to spend in one go but at least the Trophy isn't depreciating as such. Dallas that used to be on here had an FD2 R and it was quite a focused machine. Very nice!
I was on track in a 172 with Gripper diff yesterday and it's an absolute beast. The way it can pull out of the corners is staggering, and annoying because I was pondering whether a diff would make it onto my shopping list. It's now firmly at the top! If I do find the funds it will have to be Quaife, for the fit & forget option - the Gripper needs too much maintenance.
Good luck getting it sorted OP
Good luck getting it sorted OP
When you say diff rebuild, what was wrong with it or did you just change the bearings?
The diff bearings should be reasonably priced (they were around £80 or so for my 205 GTi about 10 years ago).
Indeed about the Quaife, I had it in both my 205 GTis and it was one of the best modifications I've done, especially on the wet.
On the other hand as you said plate diffs need rebuilds and give a kick back on the steering wheel (which the Quaife doesn't).
The diff bearings should be reasonably priced (they were around £80 or so for my 205 GTi about 10 years ago).
Indeed about the Quaife, I had it in both my 205 GTis and it was one of the best modifications I've done, especially on the wet.
On the other hand as you said plate diffs need rebuilds and give a kick back on the steering wheel (which the Quaife doesn't).
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- #14
Right, thought I'd update the thread as I now have the car back, including the bill lol. Reading from said bill the work includes:
Remove sub frame, gearbox and clutch
Rebuild the gearbox
Fit new clutch
Replace cam belt and tensioners,
De phaser pulley and camshaft oil seals,
aux belt and tensioners
Replace broken front spring (2nd)
Aircon degas and regas
Supply and fit K-tek Race spec gearbox mount
Reasemble
Parts:
Renault clutch
Gearbox Oil
Power steering fluid
Large diff bearing
Small diff bearing
Pinion shaft diff end bearing
Pinion shaft end bearing (5th gear end)
Clutch shaft roller bearing
Clutch shaft bearing
Clutch release bearing tube
Third and fourth synchro rings
2nd gear synchro ring
1st and 2nd selector fork
5th gear spring
5th gear bolt
4th gear
4 roll pins
diff oil seal
selector rod seal
end case seal
Grand total= £3024.32
Car drive like it was new. Steering is more weighty now fluid has been changed. Gearbox is as silky as can be, feels like I could change
gear with one finger. Clutch is light and responsive. Now on the the gearbox mount.
This is not the normal polybushed upgraded dog bone mount. This is the race spec one which is three times stiffer than polybush.
Car rattles like crazy bellow 40mph when accelerating and decelerating. It is wearing in over time and adds a lot of character. There is now engine movement at all when accelerating. I feel the car handles better as the engine doesn't lean in the twisties. But if you do any kind of long trips in your car, or are not hard core like me then don't lol.
I have retained the original should I or the next owner come to there senses lol. Yes she is a daily driver haha. I'm in love with the T
once more.
Remove sub frame, gearbox and clutch
Rebuild the gearbox
Fit new clutch
Replace cam belt and tensioners,
De phaser pulley and camshaft oil seals,
aux belt and tensioners
Replace broken front spring (2nd)
Aircon degas and regas
Supply and fit K-tek Race spec gearbox mount
Reasemble
Parts:
Renault clutch
Gearbox Oil
Power steering fluid
Large diff bearing
Small diff bearing
Pinion shaft diff end bearing
Pinion shaft end bearing (5th gear end)
Clutch shaft roller bearing
Clutch shaft bearing
Clutch release bearing tube
Third and fourth synchro rings
2nd gear synchro ring
1st and 2nd selector fork
5th gear spring
5th gear bolt
4th gear
4 roll pins
diff oil seal
selector rod seal
end case seal
Grand total= £3024.32
Car drive like it was new. Steering is more weighty now fluid has been changed. Gearbox is as silky as can be, feels like I could change
gear with one finger. Clutch is light and responsive. Now on the the gearbox mount.
This is not the normal polybushed upgraded dog bone mount. This is the race spec one which is three times stiffer than polybush.
Car rattles like crazy bellow 40mph when accelerating and decelerating. It is wearing in over time and adds a lot of character. There is now engine movement at all when accelerating. I feel the car handles better as the engine doesn't lean in the twisties. But if you do any kind of long trips in your car, or are not hard core like me then don't lol.
I have retained the original should I or the next owner come to there senses lol. Yes she is a daily driver haha. I'm in love with the T
once more.