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Not sure one exists on the site, but if you do get one - post it up as it'll be a useful addition.

They'll be in millimeters not inches as they're french lol

check the fuse but the window regulators are prone to giving up on the 182's. It's actually a fairly easy fix with a replacement part. Whip of the door trim, and it's a bolt off and on job.

Sub 9 mins is respectable, I guess a Subine Smitchz or F1 driver could push the 8 mins mark, my loose timings had me do it in 8:20-8:23 on the Btg with my old engine. At the time I had plenium, inlet, air intake and exhaust mods, along with my current upgraded brakes. Iirc it was pushing out...

As above really, service and fresh petrol, make sure the battery is charged and double check the bushes etc for rubber deterioration and you should be good to go. Also - if it's been stagnant for that long, check the tyres - these could flat spot if parked and not moved, with slight pressure...

Charly at prospeed offer a life time guarantee - so if it's a prospeed, then I'd be getting a quote from a local specialists of stainless steel 'zorsts and contacting charly to see if he'll honor the fixing. Pretty poor quality from the pics and mines been on for 15 years, so surprised the...

Part number for the kit is 543A09780R https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-10824-FEBI-BILSTEIN-FRONT-AND-SHOCK-ABSORBER-TOP-MOUNT-CUSHION-SET/303405014153?fits=Car+Make%3ARenault%7CModel%3AClio%7CCars+Type%3A2.0+16V+Sport%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+II%7CCars+Year%3A2006&hash=item46a4591c89:g:zBgAAOSwomJdutwm

As above, but the jack and wheel bolt tool are pretty useless. So I'd say more for show or dire emergencies.

RPD should be able to sort these - try them. (Renault Parts Direct)

If this is an option - i'd prefer just the fronts also.

Orbisouds are the pinnacle 'zorst but hens teeth to find now - I believe they stopped manufacturing them, but could be wrong.

Been running blue's on mine since 2006 - never failed me...

Might add to the carbon one that's on my spare set... How do you want us to progress?

Keep us posted. Great work so far

Yep - i'd be interested

They can still be had from some places as I got some new ones at the back end of last - given from a garage, so not sure on where they traced them from. They're fairly standard though so could go for a different mft if reno has stopped their supply.

I'd recommend MArk Fish's springs - they're rated against the Dampers, as opposed to sportlines or prolines being purely aftermarket.

Mark Fish ones Gambit. The Eibachs on the Trophy are bespoke - not sportlines btw.

No way, it'd be like giving up a kid...

As above - I've run offsets of ET38, ET43 and ET45 on mine - the rubber makes more of a difference. Never run spacers though - not seen the point.

If you're poly bushing, be aware that it's a rocky road. The bushes that may not requiring change at the moment will suffer increased wear as the poly bushes are alot denser than oem. IF you're doing road miles, don't do the black series - you're fillings and passengers won't be liking it lol

in case you're not aware - these could be the twingo rally version. The only desernable difference being a slightly upgraded scraper seal to the top of the damper.

Door bullets look better than new - good job!

Mine added exactly 5bhp from a before and after rolling road test I had done. Not really noticeable and the weather probably makes more of a difference but it's a slight improvement.

might be the pre tensioner for the seat belt?

No, being french, nothing's straight forwards lol

IIRC there's about 7 different screens for the 182, the trophy had 3 different ones from the factory as it was a parts bin exercise.

These are always good for pricing - Osram or Philips are generally the best options. www.powerbulbs.com

How old is the battery? My money would be battery if it's not a regular driver, but it could be the alternator - having said that, were the lights on when you started it after it being on trickle charge?

Before you fill the coolant, i'd consider putting the waterless fluid in instead of normal antifreeze - it ensures it won't need changing again as it lasts 10 yrs min and means the rad won't corrode, ever.