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Yes, Mark Fish still does the revalved Koni's.

Hollio - i was talking about the front's. As I said in the later post i thought the rears were the same sachs units but couldn't remember what the cup had fitted to it.

sort of - there's a couple of tiny ball bearings under the knob, that are easily lost if you're not careful when removing the knob.

The trophy eibach spring rate differs from the cup spring rate, it's not just a lower version of it. This is where the confusion lies. The oem Trophy front dampers and springs are bespoke and designed to work with each other. These are 10mm lower than the cup. The rear dampers were sachs...

If you struggle, the easy set up is to get the oem front dampers refurbished, rear dampers go for Koni adjustable and springs all round from mark fish motorsport. It will lower the car slightly but it's the closest match to damper rates out there.

As most are saying - i'd be in if it was 1:18 or larger...

why not? lol... if I had the space and spare cash, i'd have bought it...

I guess yes, as they have the scraper seal on them - so not eom trophy spec, but a nice upgrade to the Twingo rally car spec - same in every other detail apart from the added protection of the scraper seal.

Cup shocks and dampers are completely different to Trophy ones - so ride height will differ. If you're running trophy rear spec dampers with oem cup springs - the set up will not be 100% spot on as the srping rate is close but not exactly what the oem rear springs were on the trophy. Also...

Frayz is the person to ask - seems a bit of a wiz with his own car...

FYI and to manage expectations, £7k may bag you a high mileage one, but a decent example, even with 150k on the clock are now fetching north of £7.5k - £8k...

The eibach spring from the group buy is the original spec... Not sure what you had on the car before hand - wear and tear, age etc could have reduced the effectiveness of the spring rebound plus aged dampers may be having an effect...

couldn't tell from the pics but looks like one of yours was missing part 5 from the diagram?

If you're using a clay bar - i'd recommend getting the paint layer thickness measured, especially if you're machine polishing and sealing afterwards - the panels are uneven in their thickness and you increase the chance of strike through if you use an aggresive polish. Take your time, mask up...

Not available anymore - last group buy for aftermarket OEM produced items was a few months ago, if you search that thread, add your name and if there's enough interest, the organiser might be persuaded to run it again.

air pressure is a trade secret thing - doubt that a rebuilder will let this go willingly.

you've a part missing on the one without the rubber bump stop. You could try contacting Mark Fish motorsport - who specialise in koni dampers, they may be able to supply said bump stop, or recondition them?

Normally takes around 3-4 working days for parts - I've ordered from them a fair amount and everything's always ok. Just ordered a new Ignition Coil on 26/8, received 1/9.

Autodoc have them still - search 6000073528

It's really worth what someone will pay for it - so I'd stick it up at £7-£7.5k and see what bites you get.

They used to send these out free iirc

Sounds like they've placed the ad before realising what the car is....

It may be the weight of the clutch that's throwing you? that said, mine is on it's second so can't quite remember what the original one was like in comparison.

They look like cup shocks maybe? they're not oem, just the ones he put on the car while his sachs were refurb'd.

Not just one.

Spent years looking for a good carbasse one - they are a definate improvement. Decided to go for a complete upgrade a year back though.

It's pointless unless a second, singular item could be sourced. If one needs replacing, you should replace both as the damper rates soften over time, having one new and one aged shock results in eratic cornering, braking and general drive-ability.

as above - no spring will outlast a car, unless said car doesn't last long. Most should be replaced every 50k miles or so, although the state of the road surface the car racks up the miles is a great factor in aging of the spring.

Shouldn't replace dampers on their own - always in pairs.

hmmm, can't make it out properly - i'd be guessing its either a bearing if it's consistent a repeatable...?