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I've had my trophy a few days now and was wondering how everyone else is running theirs in?

Im sure the bloke at the dealership said dont go over 4500 revs or 80 mph...........but iv just read in the handbook 3500 revs or 80 mph?!

What has everyone else been told?

Cheers

P.S the handling is £$%^*)& amazing, i cant wait to be able to use the full range of revs and really get that traction control working! lol
 
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TBH mate 4500 is fine, just use a bit of common sense, let it warm up fully, change gear early, be soft on the brakes, Once 500 miles has arrived push it up to 5500. Once 1000 has arrived thats your Q for lots of fun and i mean LOTS OF FUN!!!!! :lol:
 
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Like steve sais, i took it nice and slow for the first 500, more so to get used to the speed and acceleration of the car. Now i'm on 750, i've started to take to to 5k. Can't wait till i've done a 1000 miles though.
 
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If i buy a new trophy (test drive this weekend) then i will only have to wait 2 weeks till i hit 1000 miles. However if i do buy a trophy i'd probably buy another heap of a car to do the daily commute in. Otherwise i'd have the highest mileage trophy around within a matter of months and it'd lose to much money.
 
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Thats what i do, i use the Trophy when i'm on nights, but for the rest of the time the journey to work its in my plodder, a nice 60 all the way to work. Think i've nearly done 55k in it in three years but i get 550 mpg which isn't bad. Then when i get in the Trophy i enjoy it and appreciate it even more.
 
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my special one. lol sorry mpg was supposed to be a tank. haha. I wish i had one that did, it would probably run on flubber.
 
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lol. I'd probably buy a 205 diesel. Meant to do 50-60MPG
 
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I'm looking at spending only about £500 on the 205. I need to find a decent one or im going to end up spending to much money of repairs for it to keep it running.
 
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Go to an auction. If you can take a mechanic even better. Come November, if the pug is going to cost me more that £500 to tax mot and repair i'll scrap it and get a new one. Does need a few bits doing to it.
 
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Yeh that is my view aswell. Im looking to buy one with 8+months MOT and at least 6 months tax. Autotrader has come us trumps with a few however they are 200+ miles away from me. I shall find out details on some auctions as you suggested. Even if i don't buy a trophy i still need a daily commuter car ASAP as my 182 is clocking up the miles rapidly.
 
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Picked up the Trophy last weekend and dealer said no need to follow any running in procedure, go for it from the start.
They shouldn't encourage us....
 
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I ragged mine a bit for the first 10 miles but am now running it in according to the hand-book. Apparently it helps to seal the rings.
 
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I have spent ages on the internet looking into the best way to run in my new Trophy (get it next week - hopefully) and this article keeps being mentioned:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

People on various car forums refer to this and have tried it and claim they get more power from their engine (the article says from 2 to 10%)

Spoke to my dealer about this and he confirmed that its exactly what he did with his own 182 - which seemed like a pretty good recommendation !

The main points seems to be that:

- you should warm up the engine fully
- accelerate very hard in 2nd gear to fully load the engine
- take your foot off the power and let the engine slow itself down
- move up to 3rd gear and accelerate hard to fully load the engine
- take your foot off the power and let the engine slow itself down
- move up to 4th gear and accelerate hard to fully load the engine
- take your foot off the power and let the engine slow itself down

Repeat the above for the first 20 miles (preferrably in one session). He also recommends you do this on a back-road as you can cause all types of accidents doing this on a motorway or dual carriageway.

- Change the oil after 20 miles with petroleum based break-in oil (not synthetic) because - QUOTE: "Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !!"

There are images of pistons in the article that have used this method and those that have used the manufacturers method.

I am not saying you SHOULD do this, just providing infomation for you to make an informed choice. I am sure other members will have different views.

DH
 
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I dont think they want you to redline the engine, just to create a large amount of pressure in the cylinders for short spaces of time to get a good seal on the rings.

Apparently the cylinders have a slight pattern etched on them that has to be worn off by the rings, the pattern is gone within the first 20 miles of the engines life, so its important to do it straight away (once the engine has been fully warmed up).
 
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The way we ran ours in and also the v6 ad my old cup is this....

For the first 100 miles dont go over 4000 revs.
Between 100 and 200 miles dont go over 4500 revs.
Between 200 and 300 miles dont go over 5000 revs.
Between 300 and 400 miles dont go over 5500 revs.
Between 400 and 500 miles dont go over 6000 revs.
Between 500 and 600 miles dont go over 6500 revs.
After 600 miles rag it.

Above all try not to hold it for long periods of time at the same revs. i.e motorway driving

This worked very well for the cup which is why we did the same for the vee and the trophy
 
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