I've used as much as 3.5 degees negative camber - on track the tyre temperatures were too high on the inner edges and I've found that 2 degrees negative is a pretty good compromise for road and track, but you will get increased tyre wear. To use over 2 degrees negative effectively you need...
In order of effectiveness (and excuse if patronising)
Tuition
remove weight
Camber change + toe change
Brakes - pads/proper fluid and ducting to keep them cool, no need or expensive 4 pots
Tyres (go for 15 inch wheels) Toyos are bounded around on every single make forum around -...
Pagid Rs42s
with castrol SRF fluid - 3 trackdays with very late braking - still loads of pad left
only problem I had was at Rockingham - very heavy on brakes - when I was keeping up with a 997GT3RS* I started to get some fade, recovered with lighter braking
* I guess he can't...
'you could set the car up better with other dampers'
Steve you'd have to be visiting the Ohlins or Penske shop to do so - and that would cost ££££££
the dampers we have are far superior to anything available aftermarket such as the bilsteins
no idea - too many variables
mine seem ok at 18,000 miles
There's a quote from the renaultsport boss I think (its on this site somewhere) saying 30,000kms.
I guess by 40,000 miles most dampers on any car are getting a bit tired. Its that sort of drop in performance as well as bushes...
Firstly I'd like to point out I've had permission from the moderators for this post as it could be viewed as an 'advert'
Some background: at some stage, and 'when' will depend on many factors, the dampers will need replacing/rebuilding. The replace cost is prohibative and there's...
it does make noises on full lock, mine does two things - I get some scrub from the front tyres, and also I think theres some noise from the driveshafts which will be a their limit in these positions - pretty normal for a FWD car (and the reason why FWD cars tend to have less lock available than RWD)